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Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
Now for some detail.
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The VAG guys will recognize these D rings.
All my mechanics parts cars are under a foot of snow so I had to steal these from the sq5 for now.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Damn, thats a great idea. Anyone know a fisherman who can make me a stainless steel wire net.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Doing some final touchups. sealing bottom and baffle with epoxy. Bottom worked well but not the baffle. Was trying to keep the baffle removable but ended up gorilla gluing baffle to cylinder. Then pouring epoxy to fill. Will add some kind of veneer to the baffle.
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
DASH PODS
while I was waiting for laminates to dry I started the dash pods for the unity 8.0 widebands.
I copied the dash grills from 1/8 bb ply as I have lots of cut offs.
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Using hot glue to temp in speaker position.
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Decided to use short strand bondo for the enclosure. Started with flourist foam as a mold.
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For those familiar with using bondo fast forward. I dont have a lot of experience with fabric and resin but have done alot of stuff with “structural bondo”.
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At my photo limit
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Tips with working with bondo.
only mix what you can use in a few minutes.

adjust amount of hardener for temperature

start with less hardener and establish the mix ratio over the first few batches.

there is a “plastic stage“ where the filler is easy to shave with sure form tools. When it fully hardens, the sure form tools barely cut into the filler.

keep testing for that plastic time. If you start too early the file fills up with filler.
when the time is right shape the filler quickly.
TOOLS
I like the convex 12 inch blade better than the flat blade. The flat blade need a file handle. I use the convex blade without a tool and cut on the pull stroke. The circular blade is good for tight areas.
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Base layer of short strand covered well. You only need to rough shape it. Then refine with regular filler, “bondo gold”.
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The second coat is fairly thick, but shapes quick if you get the plastic stage on time.
The third coat is thin and fills in the sureform tool marks and any other imperfections
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This is when i switch to a 50-80 grit flat body hand sander.
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I need one more touch up layer. My final covering will be leather so I only need to sand to 180.
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I need one more touch up layer. My final covering will be leather so I only need to sand to 180.

View attachment 369397
You'd be surprised just how much leather/vinyl will reveal, especially at the edges/contours/transitions, and any dips or peaks in somewhat flat expanses.

Paint them with High Gloss Black to see the imperfections. ;) Then mark the appropriate areas and lightly sand away the black paint, fill, and re-sand, repeat x20.

If you're planning for these to be your FINAL SET of pods and dont want to redo them, get them AS SMOOTH and EVEN AS POSSIBLE. Check how they fit and look in-situ with the Gloss Black.

Bondo sure ain't my favorite, but have fun with it.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Bbfoto makes a good point. I think the big tip with any body work is dont expect the next step to hide anything.
I’m designing these pods as I go. For the short term Im gonna cover the pod with leather grain vinyl wrap so need a paint finish. I find even wet primer shows up the imperfections. I decided I want a crisp edge all across the top, so more filler.
I will install the driver side pod and live with it a while before I do the right side and final covering.
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Discussion starter · #35 ·
Im told the a/s5 and the q5 have the same dash layout. I cant see being able to do this with anything bigger than a 2” driver.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Fill, sand, paint x3 only 17 more
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got my crisp edge.

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the crisp edges are going to make them exponentially more difficult to wrap in vinyl/leather.
That’s the first thing I thought as well. They look good, but covering them will be tricky. The stitching idea would look great, especially if you can match the stitching elsewhere in the car.
 
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