Why not 1 18. IB don't need alot of power to get loud if done right.

 

Any sub will work in IB, ideally it will have a high Qts, low Fs and high Xmax. If they are not called out as IB (like Fi are) than they will only take about half their rated power.

I have the Fi IB 18. it took about 6 weeks to get. If the 12" diameter isn't what is limiting you, you might be better off with a single 15 or 18 (or even 24") for more cone area.

 

18" kali on 1800rms would be sick with it.

 

I have yet to try (or even hear) an IB setup, but I know the Acoustic Elegance IBAU & SBP subs get a lot of love around here.

 

Are you going with a True IB like the Batdog Audi or the current BMW Build or a Leaky Trunk Baffle?

2x12 is better than 1x15 but 1x18 is WAY better than 2x12 and there are more choices in 18s.

Current 12" IB contenders off the top of my head:

IB12AU - Automotive Infinite Baffle Woofer - SQ Subwoofer

The IB12AU - Automotive Infinite Baffle Woofer for SQ and SQL. Featuring the Full Copper Faraday Sleeve, FCFS, for low distortion - Acoustic Elegance

aespeakers.com

C12 XL – Illusion Audio | High-End Mobile Audio

Illusion Audio High-End Mobile Audio - Designed and Engineered in California

www.illusionaudio-america.com

SQL Series (you have to ask for them to degauss it if you want 0.7 Qts)

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Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per CoilDayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC SubwooferExperience the Apex of Subwoofer DesignThe Ultimax Series of dual voice coil subwoofers, from Dayton Audio, are not for the faint of heart. Built using the latest in subwoofer technology...

www.parts-express.com

 

Are you going with a True IB like the Batdog Audi or the current BMW Build or a Leaky Trunk Baffle?

2x12 is better than 1x15 but 1x18 is WAY better than 2x12 and there are more choices in 18s.

Current 12" IB contenders off the top of my head:

IB12AU - Automotive Infinite Baffle Woofer - SQ Subwoofer

The IB12AU - Automotive Infinite Baffle Woofer for SQ and SQL. Featuring the Full Copper Faraday Sleeve, FCFS, for low distortion - Acoustic Elegance

aespeakers.com

C12 XL – Illusion Audio | High-End Mobile Audio

Illusion Audio High-End Mobile Audio - Designed and Engineered in California

www.illusionaudio-america.com

SQL Series (you have to ask for them to degauss it if you want 0.7 Qts)

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Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per CoilDayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC SubwooferExperience the Apex of Subwoofer DesignThe Ultimax Series of dual voice coil subwoofers, from Dayton Audio, are not for the faint of heart. Built using the latest in subwoofer technology...

www.parts-express.com

People really need to hear that car. I may be a bit biased, but I love it. I think the best part of the whole thing is that it's a stealth build with a 24 that'll be breaking the 150dB barrier soon.

Thanks for the ideas. These are all good. I was hoping to get closer to 900 watts rms. I see a lot of these are 500 watts. I like my music loud and have the power and front stage to keep up. I understand 15s and 18s would be better, but the spot I'm working with two 12s would be perfect. They are going in a 2018 infiniti Q60. The trunk has 8.7 cubic feet of space, which is smaller than most. I really think two ib 12s would be perfect with that. I've already sound deadened butyl, ccf, mlv and started sealing holes. I plan on using 3 pieces of 3/4 MDF as the baffle and maybe a few braces.

The trunk pic is old system, just showing the space.


View attachment 343254

Here's a pair of SQL-12 D4s in a Honda Civic Si. Took a couple of days to do this.

The output was terrific on a little MTX Jackhammer 1000. The track "Wallace" from the Bladerunner 2049 soundtrack was amazing.

 

Acoustic Elegance woofers IB12AU

 

Thanks for the ideas. These are all good. I was hoping to get closer to 900 watts rms. I see a lot of these are 500 watts. I like my music loud and have the power and front stage to keep up. I understand 15s and 18s would be better, but the spot I'm working with two 12s would be perfect. They are going in a 2018 infiniti Q60. The trunk has 8.7 cubic feet of space, which is smaller than most. I really think two ib 12s would be perfect with that. I've already sound deadened butyl, ccf, mlv and started sealing holes. I plan on using 3 pieces of 3/4 MDF as the baffle and maybe a few braces.

The trunk pic is old system, just showing the space.

 

Thanks for the ideas. These are all good. I was hoping to get closer to 900 watts rms. I see a lot of these are 500 watts. I like my music loud and have the power and front stage to keep up. I understand 15s and 18s would be better, but the spot I'm working with two 12s would be perfect. They are going in a 2018 infiniti Q60. The trunk has 8.7 cubic feet of space, which is smaller than most. I really think two ib 12s would be perfect with that. I've already sound deadened butyl, ccf, mlv and started sealing holes. I plan on using 3 pieces of 3/4 MDF as the baffle and maybe a few braces.

The trunk pic is old system, just showing the space.

View attachment 343255
View attachment 343254
View attachment 343253

With an 8.7 cubic foot trunk you don't need to look for IB Subs unless you plan to cut a big hole or expand the factory vents in a big way. That "Leaky Trunk Baffle" will model about to about double the space and 16-18 cubic foot leaky enclosure is a long way from IB for the 0.7 Q we've been discussing. Is this also the Neo Subs thread car?

Here's a quick and dirty rundown of 2x12 Subs in 15 cuft sealed that will handle 1800 Watts without exceeding xmax (this is with cabin gain from 65-10Hz):

It's not often that I recommend W7s but they fit the bill for what you're doing.
Raven, Illusion, Eminence, Dayton UM, AE SBP or IB and the others won't handle 1800 Watts.

 

The limit in IB subs is the suspension, with no box to control the movement the subs they have lower power handling.

Two 12's should work good for you, you'll just have to keep an eye (or ear) on the subs for bottoming out as you set your gains.

 

These will take the power.

12 Inch L7 Subwoofer | KICKER®

KICKER produces high-performance car audio, vehicle specific solutions, marine audio, home and personal audio, and power sports products since 1973.

www.kicker.com

 

in IB you should only put half the rated power to them (subs that are specifically "designed" for IB are rated correctly, like the Fi IB subs)

 

I've had that kickers before. It didn't take rated power for more than a month before it mechanically busted it self in a ported box. I used a 0db test tone to set my gains to 900 RMS (42volts @2ohms) on an oscilloscope before some one mentions clipping.

 

These do well for me. Are you sure you need every last drop of power into your IB setup because I have two true IB in my Rav4 and they throb with a HD900/5 sub channel on each.

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Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per CoilDayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC SubwooferExperience the Apex of Subwoofer DesignThe Ultimax Series of dual voice coil subwoofers, from Dayton Audio, are not for the faint of heart. Built using the latest in subwoofer technology...

www.parts-express.com

 

It’s been a while since I’ve cranked young jeezy but I feel like they’ll take almost every watt of the JL’s power. The bottom has a 12”x12” hole to vent outside.

 

It’s been a while since I’ve cranked young jeezy but I feel like they’ll take almost every watt of the JL’s power. The bottom has a 12”x12” hole to vent outside.

View attachment 343294

Funny that you mention young Jeezy. I've been toying with the auto tune on the Helix and every time I'm done, "put on" is the very first song I put on. Lol song makes my whole car "Flex"

 

Op, you got 1,800 watts of midbass to glue your subwoofer stage? 😉

 

Not yet, but my car does have factory shallow 10s in the doors, I was going to cross that bridge when I get there and get some decent shallow 10s in the factory location and add a midbass amp. 270amp alternator should keep up with my plans.

 

Lol 1800 watts on midbass is extream but you need at least 1k

 

I’m thinking about flipping the script and doing my UM12’s up front for midbass and my Epique 7’s ported for the bottom end. sike

Just seeing where his head is at on his midbass game. I’m going to have at minimum, my Dayton reference 10” with 7-800 watts up front for midbass impact when I start building the Honda Pilot I’m getting eventually. I’d love to get two 10’s up front.

 

I’m thinking about flipping the script and doing my UM12’s up front for midbass and my Epique 7’s ported for the bottom end. sike

Just seeing where his head is at on his midbass game. I’m going to have at minimum, my Dayton reference 10” with 7-800 watts up front for midbass impact when I start building the Honda Pilot I’m getting eventually. I’d love to get two 10’s up front.

Uhhhh 10" front sub. If I could go back and re choose my front sub it would have been a GB10D4. I have the space for a sealed box for it. And choosing the amp would have been easier too. The Hertz ml2000.3 I put in there is no slouch but I think thr GB10 would have been a better choice. My wife listens to EDM and this song she plays just rips midbass in my car.

Sorry OP for the off topic but you should also consider a front sub to go along with your IB. Im sure the combo would be epic. Seriously though I'd love a coupe to do a rear seat delete with some IB subs.

 

I think something that's a little missed by some of these drivers is Le. Le determines the high end roll off. Model a FI ib3 with and without. The sub just flat out doesn't play above 60 Hz by design. But that might work for you if you have a nutty midbass frontstage.

 

I can verify this. I have the Fi IB 18 it peaks at 24hz in my car. I have 2 Massive Audio HippoXL 6.5's to fill in the 60-100 to meet my doors, replacing those with a CDT QES820 front sub as soon as that shows up.

 

Just modeled the um12 because I wasn’t sure if my suggestion was accurate. At 500w the Um12 exceeds excursion a hair under 30hz. Although going from 1,000w to 1,800w might not be a big jump the Um12 isn’t for the initial question. I was correct that each Um12 will take the full HD900/5 500w but incorrect to suggest them in this build.

 

So back to the op.
So I mapped out all the subs mentioned in winISD. And the two clear winners are the
FI audio-ib312 (better in transfer function) and the IDmax 12 (better in spl). The FI sub is 600rms and the ID sub is 1200rms. Considering the FI sub is made for infinite baffle, I'm thinking it can actually take 600rms. The IDmax is not technically made for infinite baffle. So am I assuming the IDmax would take roughly 600rms also?

 

So back to the op.
So I mapped out all the subs mentioned in winISD. And the two clear winners are the
FI audio-ib312 (better in transfer function) and the IDmax 12 (better in spl). The FI sub is 600rms and the ID sub is 1200rms. Considering the FI sub is made for infinite baffle, I'm thinking it can actually take 600rms. The IDmax is not technically made for infinite baffle. So am I assuming the IDmax would take roughly 600rms also?

Yea I think the rule of thumb is half the power.

 

Also what separates an infinite baffle from a leaky trunk build? Because I plan on sealing the trunk. Seriously trying to understand what you are saying

 

IB is defined (usually) as 10x Vas or 0.4 Qtc - for Subs that have 0.6-0.7 Qts it takes WAY more than 8 cuft to get the Qtc down to IB range. The actual standard is that there is NO enclosure on the backside and that the front and back are totally sealed from each other (nearly impossible in car audio) or that the back wave has to travel further than the wavelength of the lowest frequency reproduced to come in contact with the front wave.

Leaky Trunk Baffle is the usual setup since Trunks are not sealed from the factory - they have fresh air vents, usually behind the tail lights so that the trunk is easier to close and also to let the flow thru from the HVAC vent to atmosphere. It actually becomes an aperiodic enclosure since it has variable damping based on frequency and flow. None of the free modeling software can model aperiodic enclosures so we estimate about +50-100% extra space for the volume of the trunk and used Sealed in WinISD to get an idea of what kind of excursion you can expect to see if the model is anywhere close. None of it is to be taken as gospel, it simply gets you in the ballpark and you have to experiment and take a SWAG on which one you THINK is going to work best and compare that with others' experience doing the same thing.

The biggest parameter to look at is xmax, then RMS and Q to make sure you've got the thermal capacity at that excursion level and the trunk capacity to get a good alignment. When you plug in a driver like the Fi IB and WinISD gives you a suggestion for optimal sealed of 19 cuft then you can understand that putting that same driver compliment in that space will have some enclosure dampening and not be truly IB... hope this helps.

 

Two IDmax 12s might be the winner. I've heard they have their issues though. Unless I am plotting them wrong in winISD which very well could be. I'm entering them according to the help files with no integrity check issues. Even with double the box volume as suggested they don't come near there max cone excursion

 

Which set of specs are you using for the IDMax? There's been great contention on the accuracy of the current model and ID says the previous model specs are closer to being accurate... not sure as I've not run across anyone measuring them.

The Brahma or SQL will be the goto if you want to use 1,800W and the SQL is better at "IB" or Trunk Baffle.

Make sure you check the quarter panels for leakage back into the passenger compartment which is way more important to get closed off than the vents. If you do manage to get the trunk actually sealed then closing the trunk lid should bounce off the air pressure when you try to close it... if it can be "slammed" (is it hydraulically damped or electrically closed?) then it's still leaking air somewhere.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

I wasn't trying to save weight but I was trying to save space. So, I went with subwoofer that perform well in sealed boxes that can take some power. Brahma X, SQLs 12s are the ones I chose. My single Brahma X in a 1.5qcbft sealed birch box is taking a little over 2k, sounds really good and gets plenty loud in a longer sedan. I also have dual SQLs in 1.1 each sealed taking 4k and gets extreamly loud and sound really good too. I don't know what the Single Brahma and box weights but it's not that heavy. But then again I can toss the dual sql box over my shoulder and walk away so what's light to me may not be to some one else.

 

Stereo integrity makes a custom IB18. Call and talk to Nick about getting one made. I have one and you can see it in my 2014 build in my sig. It is crazy loud and amazing sounding bass.

Faux Hair trick stereo integrity 18” infinite baffle configuration in 2013 VW cc. Moving some air!

This is in a sound quality car 3 way active system Infinite baffle 18” VW ccWho says sound quality can’t get loud! 🙄.

youtube.com

 

So I played around and I no longer get bottoming out on my Fi 18, the noise I get now is the 3rd taillight hitting my back window, I thought I had that fixed but not quite. Testing from 10-30Hz. But again, I'm only pushing 496-591W (at 40hz), depending on if I can keep my engine running and the volts up.

 

Here is the hole I'm working with, (that's what she said?)

Its hard to get in a picture how small this area is. It's about 13" tall and 30" wide at it's widest spot. Going to be a tight fit for sure.

 

faCe the magnet into the car. Use a board attached to the bottom of rear deck to space the subs basket away from the rear deck support. Then you’ll have more room to work with. I fit an 18” SI into my vw cc that has a 17” opening

 

Are those ab xrs?