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DSP Noobie Here, Looking for someone to help tune my AudioControl DM-608

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6.3K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  ItsonlyaHONDA  
#1 · (Edited)
I just recently upgraded from an Audiocontrol LCQ-1 Line output converter to an AudioControl DM-608 DSP. The Smart DSP Software is an absolute nightmare. I need some help.
I know the unit has huge potential but the tuning is the most obnoxious and janky thing.
I'm relatively new to car audio, only watching a few YouTube videos and installing stuff at a cheap audio installer for 2 years now and have a decent system so far:
Factory Head Unit 2015 Cruze Infotainment system.
DM-608 AudioControl DSP
Alpine KTA-450 for my Door Speakers and tweeters,
Pioneer 1000W Four Channel Amp for my 2 rear deck speakers
DS18 2000W Peak Monoblock Amp - for my sub
4x Alpine S165 Series 6.5 inch component and coaxial speakers with 1" Tweeters
2x Pioneer TS-D69F Rear Deck Speakers
Skar Audio EVO Series 10" 2000W peak subwoofer.
2 Farad Capacitor to fight loss of max power during high loads. (and looks cool af)
Sound Deadening in all 4 doors, and Trunk Lid

I Spent 4 hours tuning the system not having a clue with half the options (signal summing makes 0 sense to me other than just adding in more range which shouldn't it already do that?), don't know how to set crossovers, don't know how to tune the equalizer to how i want it to sound like, how I would fix muddy sound. etc., I went to save it, saved the file to my computer, and saved it to the memory presets on the dsp. Exited the software and then unplugged the cord. All of a sudden when I restart the car it sounds like it did when I first got it installed and nothing saved. I don't even know how to save it properly apparently. I go to reload the file I saved and it wipes the hardware because I hit "new" and now my rear 6x9s have zero output now other than tweeter but are showing signal on the output RTA. I've moved around RCAs, Summed every signal in the software, and still my 6x9s are not working for midrange, There is power to the amp, there is signal being sent to and out of the dsp, I don't get it. If anyone has experience with this DSP and the software please let me know. Everything I have looked at on google or YouTube is either not for my type of car audio system when it comes to tuning it, or involves me me needing thousands of dollars in tuning equipment, microphones, paid software which is even more complicated, or videos using overly convoluted terminology and explanations which leaves me more confused than when I first started the video. I just want the damn thing to sound how I want it to, since I know I have a fantastic setup if it's tuned correctly, it sounded really good with my LCQ-1 but sent out a hissing (basically every unit did) and I wanted more controls to aim sound and improve staging so I went here. Everyone Online has said it was their go to upgrade and once they fiddled with it it sounded great.

While these other questions are being answered, I would want to know any other improvements or recommendations to change and improve my sound system if you aren't knowledgeable on the DSP upgrade, although don't want to ball out on all the upgrades, but find ways to improve my current setup for cheap.

Please Contact me at "varnox" on Discord (Varnox#0001) or message me here so I can get in contact with you. I am willing to even pay $50 to whoever gets me to tune the system to my liking and solve my existing problems with the system.
 
#6 ·
I have checked youtube. The youtube videos I found were extremely unhelpful for my problems. Car Audio Fabrication guy is good but he really overcomplicates some of the stuff he explains and carries on like he just expects you to know what he's talking about, he likes to overuse terminology when explaining so you have to have a lot of prerequisite knowledge about audio.
The 1 hour livestream was the most helpful video, but the guy in that video had a $1500 RTA Measurement setup externally from the audiocontrol DM-608's RTA which is what he used to tune it for 90% of the video. Which I don't have. I also don't know how to have my rear deck speakers play midrange again. The coaxial unit rear decks I have only have the tweeter playing.
 
#5 · (Edited)
So.... I count 3 sets of coaxials. I'm guessing 1 per door and a set on the rear deck. Those should play from 80-20khz. Your "muddiness" probly coming from those speakers playing below their intended passband. On the DSP channels that send signal to those amps set it to 80-20k.

The sub should play up to 80hz, and depending on your box will determine the HPF.

As far as how to use the DSP check out those youtube ppl that where mentioned. But from I've read about the AC DSP Its really buggy.
 
#7 ·
I hear you on the software being buggy. The auto feature really doesn't work or I haven't figured out how to use it. I have played pink noise through a high res file and used the auto feature with nothing clipping and it made my audio sound terrible, I had to adjust it myself but I still just couldn't get it perfect. Still not happy with how it sounds and don't know what to adjust to get it sounding proper. Thanks for the help on the crossovers. But shouldn't they be set to the factory specs of the speaker. I've seen a lot of conflicting information on this.