Thank you for taking the time to post this. I have one gathering dust and have been on the fence of install or sell for a few months. Now I just need to find the time to install - LOL!

 

you wont regret it bud ,

 

Told ya.. lol

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It's an outstanding product backed by excellent engineering and super responsive support.

 

which one were you using before?

 

the mobridge da-3 . still using it but just as a pre amp , or optical out to the helix.
not using any of its "processing"

 

I'm waiting until I can get room in the garage (damn broken Mini) to install mine. Looking forward to similar results.

 

Are the internals on this that much better that you're noticing better SQ in a car as a result, or are we talking about tuning capability that you are benefiting from?

Fundamentally, these processors are doing the same thing (frequency and level tuning, time alignment, etc.), so I'm confused why one all of a sudden sounds better (especially in a car).

 

Get dsp
???
Profit!

 

Loved my MKii... love both my P Six mkii.. the modules just make it even better with the options available. I can't think of any DSP (Other than the un-released BRAX) I would rather have.

 

Is there a difference in SQ between the MK1 and the MK2?

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Helix in general makes awesome product, Please don't get me wrong, even though this is my second DSP from Helix because the first one was giving me some issues. I would strongly suggest and recommend the company to make a different connection for the controller as called the (Director) thats my only complain, other than that.. its the best dsp that money could buy.. I wonder what Brax is going to come up with.. but i'm sure at the same time it will be the triple amount because it is what it is..... Brax.... LoL

 

install is everything the less processing you use the better off you are.

 

This is a **** banket statement. Maybe in a home, professional studio environment where speaker placement is more ideal and controlled, in a car you will need processing.

Not everyone can/will modify the interior of their car to get ideal mounting locations.

Please be realistic in your statements.

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The big mistake is thinking the car environment is a good listening environment

 

My comment was only in reply to his statement and I stand by it. It was not a pro helix comment. I run a minidsp myself as I cannot justify the price.

Blanket statements like his are just incorrect and ignorant.

Car audio and I mean every aspect of car audio is a compromise. This includes the speakers chosen, which cables, which amps, which HU, hell, even the vehicle itself. If he stood behind what he says, then he would have chosen a vehicle which had a large flat perfectly symmetrical dash area without any obstacles that would cause diffrations/reflections...but no, I can almost gaurantee he didn't which would invalidate his blanket statement.

This also doesn't take into account people's goals or budget.

To say install is everything shows a lack of understanding of the hobby ad a whole. THERE ARE NO ABSOLUTES! This cannot be repeated enough.

And of course this does not mean that the installation means nothing. Of course it does...but it is only a single facet of the whole that is car audio. It's one tool in the toolbelt.

AND, if you can create a more pleasurable and believable experience without DSP, then more power to you, just don't expect everyone to have the same experience or outcome.

I personally will always have some form of DSP in my systems.



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Does anyone else experience a pretty significant turn on pop with their Helix DSP PRO Mk2? I'm feeding mine high-level input from the factory head unit in a 2017 Toyota 4runner and it has a pretty audible turn on pop. I'm very happy with how user-friendly the software is and have no other complaints.

 

make sure you have zero delay, on remote output, and also use a 12v relay for your amps, if you using helix dsp remote out... that has fixed my problem.

 

I will say this though (regarding installation...), the planning, testing, measuring, etc portion is critical if you plan to optimize the system. DSP is absolutely necessary, there is no way around that in the car environment, however too often people buy pieces of the system and then install them in an area because "it fits" or because that's where others are installing it.
If you want to truly optimize both the gear you have purchased and the sound possible with the vehicle you have as a canvas, I'd highly recommend taking plenty of time before installing anything to measure, listen and test different mounting locations and angles, etc to find out what works best in that particular vehicle. This is a part of "install" that is extremely important and sets you on the right path from the start.

 

While you're at a level above most on here when it comes to install and tuning there is that degree of satisfaction of squeezing as much as possible out of carefully selected speakers that fit like nothing ever happened from the outside looking in. I proudly admit that I'm one of those crotchety lazy installers that refuses to go beyond factory locations and rely on dsp to get the general idea dialed inAll about getting the best you can out of what you have to work with. Look forward to hearing what your hard work has gotten you

 

if someone won highest SQ score at finals with an P99, i could only imagine what he could do with a Helix! probably 10 plus more points?

 

Depends on the vehicle and system, but there's no doubt that the Helix unit allows for far more refined adjustments than a P99 so it's not a stretch to think that the same system with the Helix piece could potentially yield some improvements. The P99 is a very nice all in one unit though for sure.

 

I'm sure the Helix is the bees knees but couldn't get an employee discount like RF and Audison (I later realized I actually could have... but I never asked because Helix/Brax isn't a stocked item at Sound Sensations). I wanted one in the past, just trying to figure out how a simple swap with, let's say, the same effective tune (within capability) or no tune at all results in an immediately a better-sounding system without there being some underlying default setting contributing. I mean, I've heard some pretty amazing Audison-processed systems. But, hey, if a better DAC ALONE can make this difference, cool. But, dead horse because there's no way in hell I'm paying another $1,200 for one when I have a RF360.3 and Audison bit One with access to the bit Tune for free, haha. But I get internals make a big difference - stationary. Driving down the road... that value degrades -- it has to. But, sure, parked at a meet or competition... I'll take those extra SQs from better internals and I'd expect them with a higher price tag!

 

Hmm, that's odd. I've never had an issue with turn on pops related to the remote output. I've powered up to 5 amplifiers off of the remote out of the Helix with no issues. Now delays can definitely cause pops though.

 

I have 2 amps in my car, and I was getting loud pop on my mids when running remote directly from DSP. Why?? I have no clue... But relay has fixed the problem. Maybe not enough of voltage from remote output could be one thing... But who knows.. either way I gotbit working and now I'm happy with it.

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i think using a relay no matter what on a multi linked remote lead is always good practice .

and as far as my (the op) statement on the helix sounding better than the da-3
it just does , i think its built better has a better d/a , and its easy to use . also stepping up to an 8v output has given me better response and a cleaner signal as well .

im from the old school of install thereoy , i allways said its all about product choice and placement . the install is 90% of the result . im not using the dsp as a crutch just more like a little helper .