[Slave2myXJ]

https://www.cdtaudio.com/main_series/wideband/wb_systems/wideband4b.php

 

[cman]

I believe that QTS used to matter when people were using passive crossovers and did not know what their crossover point was exactly because they were using a dial on an amplifier...and they had no EQ... nowadays with a DSP using high pass and EQ.. I personally do not believe QTS matters as long as the driver's FS is maybe 50hz or less...and you have a decent amount of linear excursion. if you have a QTS of 0.3 and a FS of 75hz.. then you might have a problem.. but you can model these in winisd.. as long as the driver has a decent amount of linear excursion and you have a DSP I disagree that the low QTS would be of a concern. I do not think it would change much of anything since all if affects is the slope of the low end rolloff and your high pass will be higher than the slope so it will be rendered pointless.

 

[cman]

my #1 choice would be Vifa NE180W-04 - you can get them on AliExpress for $90 each. They have more linear throw than an Audiofrog GB60 which is pretty insane.. just keep in mind they are a little oversized (actually about 7" not 6.5") and quite deep. (home audio driver)

If that sounds too extreme for you then diy audio Anarchy 7" if you are running a 3 way.. or Dayton Reference..

If you are using a DSP.. you are going to get way better performance out of raw drivers than a car audio set unless you are prepared to drop more $$

 

[Thomasluke7899]

If I go with one of the SB Acoustics mids, I'll be able to fit this SB tweeter in price range wise. The off axis graph looks nice. What do you guys think of this one and will it pair well with the SB mid?

SB Acoustics SB19ST-C000-4 3/4" dome tweeter

SB Acoustics SB19ST-C000-4 3/4" dome tweeter

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

Could you not fit a 3 inch midrange in that spot? Mayne surface mount the tweeter.

 

[mrexcitement]

Another vote for SB Acoustic drivers , I have SB17MFC35-4 and SB29RDNC-C000-4 in my car crossed at 2khz 24db LR driven by 150wrms and they can really go loud but remain crystal clear , they provide low distortion high quality sound , I personally think they are at the top of the list for bang for buck raw drivers.

 

[Bobbyeggertonson]

Alright, so since the consensus does seem to be leaning towards SB, I have chosen these two drivers since they fit my budget perfectly. Give me your thoughts on this setup. The SB19 tweeter looks really solid. Do you guys think it would truly be worth it spend twice the money on the SB21s?

SB Acoustics SB17MFC35-4 6" Poly Cone Woofer

SB Acoustics SB17MFC35-4 6" Poly Cone Woofer. Premium woofer driver in stock. Expert advice on enclosures and amplification. Contact Madisound.

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

SB Acoustics SB19ST-C000-4 3/4" dome tweeter

SB Acoustics SB19ST-C000-4 3/4" dome tweeter

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

 

[RyuTsuiSen]

My personal opinion here. (Shocking, this is a forum right?) The sb19 isn't gonna offer as much of an improvement as the sb29. The sb29 allows a lower crossover and is just a great tweeter. That being said.

Why not try the sb woofers with your bc25's? The 25 series of tweeters are very solid and have homes in nice speakers. The differences between the sb19 and them I think would be marginal.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[mrexcitement]

If you can stretch the budget to the SB29RDNC it's a much better tweeter , higher power handling with a smaller profile making install easier , highly recommended but the SB19ST is ok if that's all your budget will allow.

 

[bnae38]

Not to mention lower distortion from the ring domes. I've run both, it's definitely noticeable.

 

[bnae38]

I've run the sb26 dome and sb29 ring dome that is. The 29 was the clear winner. Running one now in center (nvx xsptw).

The sb21 is a new smaller variant of the sb29 which should be easier to install imo, no experience with that one.

Fwiw, I would do the sb29 if you can fit it and are ok with the price. Excellent tweeter and a flat out bargain compared to tweeters 2-3x the price.

I only recommended the 21 because it's a bit cheaper and smaller with most of the same goodies.

 

[cman]

if you want a tweeter that is cheap and kicks a$$..and do not care about large physical size.. these are two phenomenal options.. not small.. but the DX25 is one of my all time favorite tweeters at any price point.... its just huge

Vifa DX25TG59-04 1" Fabric Dome Tweeter

Peerless DX25TG59-04 1" Fabric Dome Tweeter. High-quality tweeter in stock. Crossover and system matching advice available. Contact Madisound.

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

Vifa XT25SC90-04 Ring Radiator Tweeter

Peerless XT25SC90-04 tweeter (Vifa) (Part number changed from XT25SC50) Dual Concentric Textile Ring Dome Neodymium magnet Phase Plug Ring formed absorption chamber Heat sink Gasket 4 Ohm Fs 837 91.7 dB Outside diameter 65mm Cut out 46.2mm (47mm max!!!) Depth 21mm Small terminal is positive and...

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

 

[bbfoto]

These do look nice, but the woofers are a little bit out of budget and I'm also a bit concerned about the low qts. I'll probably deaden, but won't fully seal the doors. From what I understand, it's better to have a high qts for the situation I'm putting them in, yes?

Yes, I'm definitely considering an out the box set like this as well. The JBL GTO, Polk DB, and Hertz K series all seem like nice budget options. However, since I won't need crossovers I want to spend as much of my budget I can on drivers for maximum potential. I still certainly wouldn't rule these out though. They seem like a nice bang for the buck, which is what I'm going for ultimately.

Regarding the Bold Text in your statement above, I honestly wouldn't bother upgrading the OEM midwoofers unless you're going to completely sound deaden and SEAL the doors, as you'd be leaving a lot of any good aftermarket driver's performance benefits on the table.

Your aftermarket amplifier will most likely provide cleaner power and obviously much more power on tap for dynamics for the OEM midwoofers. Just use your DSP to smooth and balance their Left & Right response at your listening position and add the appropriate T/A.

If you wanted an off-the-shelf component set, I would wait a month or two to save up another $100 above your current budget for the new Sony Mobile ES XS-162ES 6.5" 2-way components.

Otherwise I'd have to side with dumdum and others regarding the SB Acoustics SB17MFC midwoofers being the best option in that price range. They're really great midwoofers, and even with their lowish Qts, they have a much lower Fs than the other options, and your HPF should be at least an Octave above its Fs...and more likely closer to 1.5 octaves, so the low Qts essentially becomes a non-issue.

And the Tympany BC25SC tweeters are really nice considering their price. If they're still in good condition, I would give them a try. However, I'm not a fan of using most tweeters firing up at the windshield in the OEM dash locations. These particular tweeters have a slightly downward sloping response from ~1.5kHz-4kHz where we are most sensitive which gives them a nice, smooth response when on-axis, and then a slightly rising response above that which comes across as extra detail in the highs. But, if you look at their impedance plot, it has lots of little wiggles which indicate resonances and energy storage in the dome. But given these are so inexpensive, this is still great performance.

As others have mentioned, that Dayton DC28F would be a step up for not a lot of money...Smooth an extended FR even well off-axis. Also mentioned, I really like the SB21RDCN, though I normally recommend the larger SB29RDCN if you can mount them relatively On-Axis to your listening position. Otherwise the SB21 has much better off-axis response.

Generally, for 2-way front setups I'd want the tweeters to be on-axis and wider locations than the top of the dash provides. And although you most likely would not want to put holes in your new Subie's door panels, I would flush-mount or slightly angle-mount the tweeters into the door panels above the 6.5" midwoofers in the trapezoidal area immediately above the side-view mirror controls in the arm rest, and into the respective position on the passenger door panel.

Car audio tweeters that come with a nice complement of mounting hardware such as the Audiofrog GB15 or GB10 make it really easy to provide an OEM look to this type of installation, but are obviously way beyond the budget here. Unfortunately, it's not as easy to accomplish an OEM look in this instance when using raw DIY drivers, unless you are handy with CAD/CAM software and have access to a 3D printer or use Shapeways 3D printing service.

If you use the appropriate Crossovers, there will be no issues achieving a very nice and high soundstage that's well above the dash with these door panel tweeter locations, and they would also be the widest positions as well, with significantly less comb filtering than the dash locations which can be impossible to correct even with good, independent L & R PEQ.


Do you have plans to install a Subwoofer in this system? Even a small 8" or 10" subwoofer could offer significant impact and enjoyment of the system and take a lot of strain off of the midbass drivers. Also, will you often have a passenger with you, or will you mostly drive alone in the new BRZ? Several owners here have used a small sealed subwoofer enclosure in the passenger foot-well with excellent results. The foot-well location often works better than other subwoofer locations due to the better modal response at the listening position. These can also be made to be quickly and easily removed, and/or repositioned to the rear seat area when you have a front passenger.

As an example, championship SQ Competiter Brian Mitchell is using one of the newer Arc Audio A10 subwoofers in a small sealed enclosure in the foot-well of his 1st place winning Cadillac XLR system.


SOURCE? What will you be using as your main source to feed the inputs of the DSP? Garbage In = Garbage Out. Several others here with high end SQ systems in their Subies use a separate DAP connected directly to the DSP, bypassing the OEM head unit completely.

Just some food for thought.

 

[Bobbyeggertonson]

So in response to the above and everyone else in the thread, the BRZ comes with a 3.5" and 3/4" in the dash, so I have plenty of room to work with when it comes to a tweeter. I'm just going to put it in the 3.5" spot with an adapter I already have. The ultimate goal here is not really to have an SQ award winning setup, but just a nice improvement over stock, which is pretty trash tbh. The door woofers aren't band, but I figure if I'm upgrading everything else, I might as well do that too.

I do plan on adding a sub. I currently have 600w @2ohms on tap for it and a Sundown e8 in a ported box, but I will be looking to downsize. That however it not imperative at the moment. That decision will come later.

As far as the install goes, I will be using the stock locations not just for an OEM look, but because I don't live in the greatest city for theft, so I don't want any obvious tweeter pods or anything like that giving people ideas.

My amps are both Precision Power, a 4 channel and a mono amp. My DSP is the Dayton Audio 408. I will most likely be using the high level inputs that go to the stock amp for signal. I have a re-pinned harness I made a few years ago that is plug n play. I'm currently using this method in my Mazda 3 and have been happy with the sound signal-wise.

 

[Slave2myXJ]

Widebands...

 

[Stycker]

Another vote for SB Acoustic drivers , I have SB17MFC35-4 and SB29RDNC-C000-4 in my car crossed at 2khz 24db LR driven by 150wrms and they can really go loud but remain crystal clear , they provide low distortion high quality sound , I personally think they are at the top of the list for bang for buck raw drivers.

These are not only budget speakers but will rival a lot of top notch drivers. I use Audiofrog now and they are better but at ten times the cost. Are they ten times better? Hell no. For home speakers they survived in my doors for close to 10 years in three different cars. They sound better IMO to AF but can't compare in power handling, except that SB29 tweeter. It can handle a boatload of power.

 

[Bobbyeggertonson]

Last question, does it matter with the SB Acoustics tweeters whether or not I choose the neo or non-neo versions? I have the room to go non-neo (plus they're generally cheaper), just wondering if that will affect the sound at all?

 

[RyuTsuiSen]

Not really. Typically it's a size/cost factor more so than sound.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Bobbyeggertonson]

SB Acoustics SB17MFC35-4 6" Poly Cone Woofer

SB Acoustics SB17MFC35-4 6" Poly Cone Woofer. Premium woofer driver in stock. Expert advice on enclosures and amplification. Contact Madisound.

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

SB Acoustics SB21SDC-C000-4 Dome Tweeter

SB Acoustics SB21SDC-C000-4 Dome Tweeter

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

I'm going to go with these two. How should I set my crossovers?

 

[bnae38]

SB Acoustics SB21RDCN-C000-4 Ring Dome Tweeter-neodymium

SB Acoustics SB21RDCN-C000-4 Ring Dome Tweeter-neodymium

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

I would try this sb21

 

[bnae38]

As far as xo, you'll have to take some in car measurements and see what makes sense for blending with the mids.

I wouldn't cross them much below 3k @24db, but you could possibly go a bit lower.