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Need AMP for old radio and new speaker HELP!

1.9K views 31 replies 5 participants last post by  ranger_rick  
#1 · (Edited)
ok i have been working on this design for a couple years and i am sort of lost.

i have 1974 vw bug that inherited from father upon his passing. Great car but the one speaker system stinks especially since the OEM speaker was junk. BUT i wanted to keep everything as stock "looking" as possible so, I decided i would start with getting a better speaker.

I know i can buy a replacement 3.5ohm speaker but they are low quality. i went with a 4ohm retro sound 30 watt dual voice cone speaker (VW-B62) the opening is meant for a shallow 5" speaker

Problem is that the OEM am/fm motorola mono deck doesn't have enough watts to power the speaker to its fullest potential

I went in search of a amp and what i found was either too expensive, too many watts or too many amps!!

And thats were I am at, I need an inexpensive amp to power that speaker or maybe a different speaker all together or both?

I know i should upgrade the deck or add more speakers but i want to keep the stock look etc

thank you in advance RR
 
#2 ·
If the amplifier is too powerful for the speaker you can simply use a digital multimeter amd a little math when setting the gain on the amplifier. this will let you turn the amplifier down so that you don't overdrive the speaker.

I have an old school Kenwood 2 Channel amplifier that I picked up at a yard sale for 10 bucks. I use it as my test bench amp currently. Something like that might be useful for you. as an alternative you can check out partsexpress.com they of a bunch of small amplifiers, and inexpensive amplifier boards that were not intended for car audio but they will run on low voltage DC current. They even have a boards with built in Bluetooth. So for less than 50 bucks you could Bluetooth right to your car speaker with your phone.



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#6 ·
I just pulled up sonicelectronics they have about eight inexpensive amplifiers that are under 30 bucks. You can't believe the power ratings on any of these amplifiers, none of them are reputable brands. But that is fine for what you're doing.

I also like the suggestion of some type of 4-channel amplifier and then you can hide some extra speakers somewhere else inside the vehicle.

I realize that your main goal is to keep it looking stock, but sometimes that's hard to do.

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#7 · (Edited)
i have the retrosound speaker installed and it is running off the mono deck. But if you have ever ridden in a old school VW with a header exhaust you will want all the volume you can get lol :)

i have been looking on sonic and parts express and yes the numbers throw me and i am not sure what is junk and what isn't??

i guess i don't know what specs i should be looking for?? i know the speaker is a dual voice coil 4ohm and 30 watts
 
#9 ·
#10 ·
My understanding is that the wattage rating on those things is based on the amount of heat they can generate. So no need to worry about this thing being too powerful. You should worry more about clipping the signal.


Did I read somewhere in the thread that the speaker in question is a dual voice coil replacement for an older car? Back in the day that was pretty standard. You hook it up in stereo you would not bridge an amplifier mono to that kind of speaker. the idea is that if there's something just playing out of a single stereo channel than the speaker would still play it.


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#13 ·
They come with a little plug that plugs directly in to the board. All you have to do is separate it and use a couple wires to extend it. You take the new shaft through your radio's volume knob opening and attach the old knob. It's really pretty simple. I'm not joking when I say opening some radio's chassis's can be more difficult.
 
#15 ·
You definitely can. Motor-ola. That's how they got their name. Invention of the car radio. I understand why you would not want to touch it. A lot of car guys I know do gut theirs to keep the look but get features all while it seems the factory radio is running your Bluetooth tech. But anyway it will work good without.
 
#16 ·
can you or someone recommend a bluetooth amp that would work for my setup that wouldn't require me modifying the internals of my deck?

i see several manufactures make marine amps with bluetooth but i am clueless to what would work with my single speaker mono setup and low watt requirements...obviously i don't need a marine amp lol.
 
#17 ·
My first car (in '93) was a '74 Wolfsburg Super Beetle. I bought it with an aftermarket Audiovox tape player and 4 Kenwood speakers already installed, so I don't have any experience with the stock system.
A single (30 watt max) speaker will probably be best served by doing proper sound deadening under your rear seats and the firewall/rear cargo area. Finding a reputable amplifier with that minuscule amount of power isn't likely to happen as most modern head units exceed that wattage. That being said, your best option is to buy an amplifier with more power than you need and set the gain very low (exactly as recommended previously). Not exactly cost effective, but brings up a very helpful question...what is your budget? That answer will open the door to specific recommendations.
Have you considered building a removable platform in the rear cargo area that can be covered by the factory shelf/flap thingy? You could mount two speakers facing up towards the rear window, and an amplifier underneath. With the battery under the rear passenger seat, the install would be extremely simple. There was enough room for me back there to run 2 original Orion XTR 10's sealed.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I want to spend $50-$80. its not much money but spending more - i would probably moth ball the OEM deck and buy a new deck.

I have no plans to add speakers in the short term. I agree with previous posts that having the option off adding more speakers is a plus (4channel). And the bluetooth option is a great idea!

i do like the TPS3116D2 Class D 2.1 Bluetooth 4.0 Amplifier Board 2 x 50W + 100W with Filter and Volume Controls. I understand that it has 3 speakers capacity vs 4 channel but it would work for the foreseeable future. i would want to mount it in the luggage compartment and not modify the deck.

I can run wires and make good connections but i didn't want to get into tinkering with OEM internals - i mean i will if it is the only option.

More sound is my goal. more volume without a huge investment. The big money goes to keeping the old bug running :)
 
#19 ·
With that amp board, you'd have to get your 12VDC from a switched source since there isn't a remote turn-on. The master volume knob would effectively be your "gain", and the volume would be controlled by your phone via the bluetooth connection. Additionally, you would have to press and hold the master volume on the amp board if you want to switch to your factory radio as the source.
IMO, nothing about using that amp comes close to "ideal"...but I'm sure we can help you if you need it.
 
#20 ·
ok but its still cool lol - i mean i didn't even know they made add on boards for audio systems - i am definitely behind the times in terms of audio technology lmao.

i assumed i would be wiring any amp with a switched source via a relay. But yes i do see the drawbacks of that particular amp board mentioned previously.

i looking forward to hearing more recommendations - i am wiring in accessory gauges and i figured while i am doing that i will do the sound upgrade.

thanks again RR
 
#22 · (Edited)
Any inexpensive 2-channel amplifier will get the job done. I suggested Bluetooth earlier because I thought you might like the opportunity to connect some modern technology to the car. Can you post a link to what you have found so far?

I'm not sure if this was addressed in the thread. But the original factory radio still works correct? Have you thought about how you're going to get signal out from that factory radio to your amplifier?

After reading through the entire thread I really think your best bet is to just purchase an inexpensive aftermarket head unit, one that has Bluetooth built-in, and mount it someplace where it can't be seen.

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#23 ·
yes the current deck is in good working order.

and i agree an amplifier with bluetooth would be a plus. maybe even a remote.

purchasing a new head unit is an option but significantly more money. about the only units that will fit the stock are made by "retrosound" and with a new head unit an amp might be needed. i have considered mothballing the original head unit.

as far as wiring from head unit to deck my plan was to run the single + and - wires to both inputs on the amp. in other words, each input would get two wires - a + and -

i see lots of marine amps ex:

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-M...Y/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1531837754&sr=1-8&keywords=bluetooth+amp
 
#24 ·
That will get the job done. That brand does not make rated power. I would be shocked if it could put out more than 25 Watts per channel.

The only drawback, it does not have high level inputs.

I would use this: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_613BT272U/Kenwood-KDC-BT272U.html?cc=01&tp=72310

And hide it under the seat or dash, completely bipassing the stock Motorola.


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#26 ·
The Planet Audio and the Boss look to be the exact same item, just a few cosmetic differences between them.

Kenwood is a much more reputable brand. But it may also be the same item repackaged.

For all three of those units you want to make sure that they can take a speaker level input. That way you could run Siegel directly from your stock head unit into the amplifier. Otherwise you'll be out some more money for a line output converter.

Just to clarify do you want to continue to give music to your stock head unit? Or are you okay with just bluetoothing from a phone? if so then you don't need to worry about speaker level inputs on this device.

You're kind of stuck in a car audio dead zone. Cheap easy solutions that sound great may not exist.

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#28 ·
You're kind of stuck in a car audio dead zone. Cheap easy solutions that sound great may not exist.
lol i beginning to wonder the same thing :laugh:

yes i want to se the existing deck for sound output (am/fm) and have the option to run off my iPhone

there has to be reputable manufacturer that has all the options i need. maybe i need to consider more $$ options

i am not cutting the dash for a bigger modern deck
 
#32 · (Edited)
it is very intact sun bug - very solid car

i reupholstered the interior myself (with the help of a girlfriend - she did the sewing) if you look close at the pictures you can see the old faded upholstery vs the new interior photo. took me 4 years to match materials (corduroy was part of the sun bug package)

i added several performance mods to the engine (header exhaust, performance ignition etc etc) - my father had let sit in the barn for many years the engine had seized - i gave it a new rebuilt engine and performance transmission and of course i kept all the old engine for later rebuild. transmission is safely tucked away as well.

so maybe my wish list for an amp has gotten too big? in the beginning i just wanted more power to drive the aftermarket speaker (4ohm DVC 30 watts) - the original was shot (and yes i still have it ;)

4 channels makes sense - because i could always fabricate a speaker for kick areas under the back seat. adding speakers to the rear deck is a great idea but i am not up to cutting the carpet i installed throughout the vehicle.

bluetooth makes sense - because i could play my iPhone list (maybe i don't need bluetooth and just someway to connect my iPhone?? taking a phone call with bug at full rumble would be next to impossible - all the caller would hear is engine)

low power draw is important - i have no issues running wire but if i wanted to hide the amp up front (in the luggage compartment) i don't want to be snaking 4gauge wire through the car - don't get me wrong if its THE option i will do it but i am looking at $50+ just to run cable. locate the amp in the back under the rear seat (right side) will require running wires from the head unit back to the amp and then up to the speaker. seems a bit excessive.

no junk - i am lost at this point - i have no idea what decent brand is anymore - like i said i didn't even know that i could just add a board!

price point - i know i have a low price point but i am flexible if someone say "rick this is the best you are going to get for the money" and if its little out of my budget - i will figure it out. replacing the deck with something better is not off the table but in the short term i can't spend $300+ on the deck - maybe not even in the long term. i invest what spare money i have into performance and maintenance.

i call the tech support places for some of these online retailers and either they have nothing or i get the feeling i am being over sold - and i start looking at the spec and i if read that correctly i need to do a 40amp inline fuse and run approx. 15+ feet of power from the battery to front? 4 gauge??

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DXA1252/Kicker-43DXA125-2.html?tp=35757

or this monster

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJX5IY.../B00LJX5IYU/?coliid=IOLY9XFM4PYJ4&colid=R4OJG75E9CNY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

that is where i am at