Most of us use electronic crossovers, DSPS. Passive crossovers are really inferior for car audio because a car's interior is far more difficult to deal with than a room in a house.

Passive crossovers need to be built around the speakers being used, they are not universal. A speaker's sensitivity, and impedance curve play a huge role in how a good passive crossover is designed. I wouldn't recommend buying any passive crossovers, I would look into a DSP.

 

I fear it's a bit too late to try and incorporate a dsp into the setup, I'm just not prepared to run new pwr grd ect in sub 50f weather xD.. so perhaps a follow up question as I have read a bit about "how crossovers are designed specifically for the speaker they are meant to be utalized with" because I don't understand "How"

The Question: Which components of a passive crossover affect... I honestly don't know haha...

Okay: Coils, Capacitors, Resistors. The core components of a passive crossover.
Aside from quality and crossover point right... what.. "specifically" of a crossovers core component affect?

I'm just a bit confused, I have a loose understand of impeadance curves, which seems to be the issue with pasive crossovers? but why/when/where/how :] does a speakers impeadance curve matter to a crossover?

Tldr: Huh? :] Got any resources that explain the who/what/where/why and how?

 

Unless u are a sound engineer or speaker designer the best way to tune is dsp. So as above. Or buy a component system that includes crossovers Designed for those speakers.

 

For the price of a D4S DSP and a cheap amp if you need some extra amp channels, I wouldn't ever consider passive.

Add to that to properly design the passive you'll need a measurement mic and a way to take impedence sweeps, unless you want to trial and error a whole bunch of crossover designs. Just time wise the cheap DSP pays for itself.

 

Active. Only way I use passive is for mid/tweet, and only if mid and tweet are already equidistant or point-source coax (I actually run my Morel Integra 402 components passively since mid and tweet are equidistant, but passives those are expensive and specifically designed for those speakers). Active allows TA, EQ, All-Pass, and realtime X-Over tweaks and presets that are not possible in a passive. And you'll generally have more headroom with an active system.

 

if passives are biamping capable, that will give some more tuning options, will allow for delays, levels and EQ-ing for mid/TW separately. those Morel x-overs also have an option to choose slopes and different x-over points. With only one signal input you loose all those options.
IMHO, passives are not the right way to go in car audio, any DSP is more tuning capable and will most likely bring better results overall, so my suggestion is same as other said - go active - second hand amps and DSP nits are cheap....

 

Build something like this. Passive Crossover.
Use a crossover calculator to change the values for your give frequency point. Note the info on 2nd and 3rd order in terms of phase. Use something like this to work out the components values.

Speaker Crossover Calculators by V-Cap

Speaker Crossover calculators that calculates optimal capacitor values for speaker crossovers

www.v-cap.com

 

Passive crossovers will incorporate things like notch filters on a tweeter or a zobel on a woofer. They will use different slopes and invert the tweeter polarity to help match phase while maintaining the desired acoustic response. Lot's of things can be done with a good passive crossover designed for specific drivers.

 

That is fine and dandy when you have deterministic placement on a baffle - or at the very least equidistant placement of the passively-crossed drivers (like I slightly compromise with my passive Morel Mids/Tweets, but would never consider passive Midbass-to-Mid integration). In a car install, all of that is an unknown (won't be on a predictable baffle, on or off axis orientation; and generally located at unknown distances from each other) and will need to be adjusted in-situ. Driver idiosyncrasies can be tamed passively as mentioned - but the end-result will always be determined by the actual install and acoustic summation of all facets. Makes home speaker design seem "easy" by comparison (and we know good speakers are not easy).

 

Just reading this again.
You don't need a 4 inch in the mix at 3.5k xover point. Just use a tweeter instead. Otherwise consider anything above 500 hz on the 4 inch coax for a loud mix or 200 - 300hz if you don't push volume and have most of your vocals and highs coming from them.