Never heard of this being used, but doesn't mean you can't. The usual recommendation is to try not to run the RCA's parallel, next to, power cables and if the have to come in contact they should do so at a 90 degree angle... I think the easiest method is to run power down one side of the vehicle and signal cables on the opposite side.

 

Cheers for the prompt reply, mumbles.
Yeah, I know it's best to run power cable/RCA leads on opposite sides of the car.
I'm just trying to preempt any issues I may have, due to lack of space for the wiring. I'm doing this install in an R56 Mini!

 

never seen that. I have seen braiding or sheath over cables for protection but nothing to help or contain noise. I guess do you already have noise you are dealing with and how much does this cost?

 

Readily available on ebay. Prices vary depending on length & diameter. I was looking at a 3 meter length 6mm in diameter that cost £5.63.
Not installed the system yet, so this was a 'just in case' option. I kinda liked the idea and thought it seemed like a reasonable price and worth using. My rational was, 'it can only help'.

 

No

 

You guys never seen it because y’all are cheap or don’t believe in the hype I’m not gonna get into this because I use similar stuff and y’all will just make some excuse to argue to win so i am just not in the mood to argue today. But think about it this way does a condom block out fluids from interference yes should a braided shield is like a condom it protects you

 

You do talk some funniness at times 😂

as for sheilding on power cables, not required, nor is it good advice to perpetuate the old myth about power and signal cables ran together… that’s not a thing now and never was, I’ve never ever had a noise induced that I cured by moving power cables away from signal… ever, maybe I’ve just been lucky for 25 yrs 🙈

 

Cables what are build with core, inner insulation, shielding and outer insulation normaly exists. They are used a lot but for another industry where high voltage is used. I am speaking 500V, 1000V.... etc. You can find them on google, jsut search EV cable with shielding. The downside is that they are very stiff, but much better than use this stuff what you have posted. Dont forget that the shielding has to be connected to ground on both or one side. It is not enough just to cover cable with copper sleave.
Anyway for car audio it is completely useless. If you hear noise just find the source and fix it. buy good quality signal cables ( 3 times shielded ), keep them away from any source of noise / electrical fields / other leads and you will be completely fine.

 

Okay, so I'm getting confused.
dumdum says, 'as for sheilding on power cables, not required, nor is it good advice to perpetuate the old myth about power and signal cables ran together… that’s not a thing now and never was, I’ve never ever had a noise induced that I cured by moving power cables away from signal… ever, maybe I’ve just been lucky for 25 yrs'.
kiklop32 says, ' keep them away from any source of noise / electrical fields / other leads and you will be completely fine.'

 

@dumdum is a wizard…

 

Noise

 

Why not just wrap it one time and be done with trying to figure where problems might be act like take your wire with you to your next car I mean I am using 3m embossed copper shielded you wrap it around anyways point it if you block frequencies from getting out or in with all your wires then technically your sq should go up dnr goes up snr goes up less problems with interference like bt and cellar blow them out the 2.4 5ghz ranges etc how does anyone actually know none of this crap doesn’t work besides they word blabs anyone spent a grand on a trial and error in differences in testing data I highly doubt
It. There is plenty of stuff to block out audio frequencies the spectrum is vastly big and you might think your not losing anything but how do you know unless you try you won’t you justify your Knowledge based off someone else’s words but never test the theory itself spend a grand on shielding guys then run the testing and come back to prove me wrong not use someone else’s data and assum they are right.

 

He can do it as it is his choice but as I wrote above, it is not just about wraping. With todays eqip and free informations about how to instal car stereo system it is far from needed thing to do.
Just get good eqip, make the instalation right and have good ground points. If you have in your car source of such a noise able to pass 3 times shielded signals you have to take care about the source of noise. It is always better to fix root cause than consequence.

 

All I hear on Diyma is telephone someone passes ****nbrains for bricks and it ends up as bubblegum

 

I’m not trying to be a jerk here just stating no one has official data to back up the claims of it does nothing just as I have no claims to prove it does.

 

It is easy to get these datas, just use Oscope and it will be clear in minutes.

 

@420tabbycat

what I am justifying with this is that how does someone know the the snr and dnr isn’t being raised higher from the shielding of the cables with this blocking out more frequencies thuse giving better overall sound it’s the same thing as a crossover in technical terms if it can’t get in it can’t cause a issue ever especially if you lower the noise by another 50db

 

@420tabbycat

what I am justifying with this is that how does someone know the the snr and dnr isn’t being raised higher from the shielding of the cables with this blocking out more frequencies thuse giving better overall sound it’s the same thing as a crossover in technical terms if it can’t get in it can’t cause a issue ever especially if you lower the noise by another 50db

I’m not arguing you on this topic, unless I commented somewhere and forgot. I don’t know very much about this to try to act like an authority.

 

I’ve been thinking about adding a 50-100ah 12v lithium battery in my cargo area to charge the batteries for my landscaping equipment. I could also run my stereo system off it and have pristine power. I bought a 165w solar panel on super sale from Home Depot and a solar control just to be a weirdo and have a panel mounted on the roof lol. I’m probably putting a lot of strain on the stock charging system as my chargers are rapid chargers and draw a steady 600w @120v and then add the inefficiency of my 120v inverter.

 

It is good idea to have even small battery close to amps but still you need the best connection to your main battery as you need to charge the secondary battery to highest voltage possible . Dont forget to instal some rellay to brake connection between batteries when your car is off.
Keep on experimenting it is alway good

 

The simple fact is, the length of wires we're dealing with are too short to be effective at picking up frequencies that matter. Anything above 20 kHz is completely irrelevant, doesn't matter one bit. Consider in the recording world, unbalanced cables are typically used for up to 15 ft, and that's with a microphone where you're trying to pick up every little signal, every nuance and amplify the crap out of it. On top of that, you're dealing with a whole lot of 60 hz sources, stepper motors in lights, etc. Between a pre-amp and an amplifier, "up to 10m", 32ft, is within the recommended range for an unbalanced connection.

Ground loops are the true cause of nearly all noise in car audio. While a good ground is vital for power output, having a good ground is also important because the RCA cables they offer us are completely wrong for the application. Use the right cable for the job. Measure the resistance between the shell of the RCA and the ground of the device. Balanced will not be connected, un-balanced will show very little or zero resistance. If both the source and the receiving devices are both balanced, you could literally run just about anything you wanted between the two devices and it would not matter. If the source is un-balanced, such as most aftermarket head units, and the receiving end is balanced, you're still ok. Un-balanced to un-balanced is where it gets tricky and where you should be using a directional cable. In directional cables, the shield braid, or wrap, is only connected to only 1 RCA connector, instead of both as is common in cheaper cables. This sinks the noise to the source end, where the signal is the strongest. The grounds are still connected through the shell of the RCA, not much you can do there. Grounding both devices to the same location helps a ton. Often times people wire up their head unit to whatever wiring is behind the dash. For the least amount of noise, ground the head unit to the same location as the receiving device.

Because of an every-so-slight difference in potential between the ground wires of the two devices, when you connect them together with the RCA cable, DC current flows through the RCA wires. Any variances in those ground potentials, such as the pulsed signal from the brushed HVAC fan motor, the nearby Class D amplifier or change in RPM, shows up as a change in the DC current. Current -> voltage, we're using voltage to transfer audio signal, noise ends up in our system.

Edit: Brain fart; it's late...

 

Interference from power wires matters quite a lot more when we are talking about AC power, if you put two insulated wires next to each other and coil them up, you've made a crappy transformer, but transformers don't pass DC from primary to secondary, so that mains hum issue doesn't manifest in a 12vdc car. Cars generally just don't have enough power on the power wires and not enough dynamic range on the line level-ish signal cables anyway. Especially when compared to a live sound setup where stage lights could easily consume 75kilowatts, and a mic level signal might be run over a 100+ foot cable.

 

Interference from power wires matters quite a lot more when we are talking about AC power, if you put two insulated wires next to each other and coil them up, you've made a crappy transformer, but transformers don't pass DC from primary to secondary, so that mains hum issue doesn't manifest in a 12vdc car.

Not following your flow here. Sound like you're jumping from blocking DC to blocking AC? Have I misunderstood?

 

Can you text the signal with an oscilloscope? I want to test my rca's in the car vs outside with no wires near them and compare. And also grab some of this copper braided sleeving and compare with and without. Would be interesting to see that it effectively eliminates all noise in the rca cable.

 

sure-- you could do that test if you desire.

 

How would I do it? How can I visually see the alt whine or other interference that you hear?