I don't see kimber ever adding noise to a system unless it's got a hole in the jacket and it's physically touching something. It's braided so it wants to reject noise. How did the installer verify it's the speaker cable? Kimber cabke is sweet but I've never tried it in a car before.
Edit. I've ran kimber next to ac power lines in walls tons of times, (sometimes it's unavoidable) and never had it pick up even a hint of noise.

 

I was told by my installer that he did isolation and with only the amp powered, the humming is there. Any change in amp gain does not change the humming, which eliminate the input source.

The humming is very soft and it sounds like mosquito buzzing.

I did some googling and there's a possibility of DC noise getting into the speaker cables.

I'm interested to try Spira-Shield Flexible Conduit but do not whether will it affect the sound as some people mentioned that some type of shielding will have impact on sound.

 

Today I traced down the buzzing in my new install to my auto headlight switch.

 

Well done!

 

Hmm. Is the wire movable? Like can you wiggle it where it's ran and see if the noise changes. Does it do it on all your Amp channels? Try unhooking 1 speaker wire at a time and see if it disappears on all channels. Maybe 1 has a nic in it and is cause everything to have noise. I'm stumped just throwing out ideas to narrow it down.

 

Can you re route the speaker cables to the roof of the car?

You can shield your kimbers with metal techflex and solder on a ground drain wire.


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It's highly unlikely that your speaker wire is picking up noise, it's much more likely that the RCA's or some other component is picking up noise. Although it's not impossible, speaker level signal is high voltage, and you shouldn't have issues with speaker wires picking up noise. I wouldn't be so quick to believe that's the issue. If a wire is grounding out even slightly, then that's a different story. Make sure that the wire is terminated correctly at both ends, and that there's no way it's being pinched, or cut somewhere, pay close attention to where the wire passes through a door, or some other tricky spot.

 

It's likely it's got nicked or something. It's not really designed to be in a car. You strip all the wires at the ends and twist like wires together. The jacket is thin.

 

Batteries also do no have AC magnetic fields nor electric fields.

He mentioned the headlight switch a while back, so I thought the Mu metal etc was out the window?

 

I think that was another guy's talkimg about the headlight switch.
Yeah battery wouldn't, but maybe pwm for the electric motor.

 

That's my thought too. I think one of the wires it touching something and picking up noise and sending it to the Amp. I use that wire all the time and the jacket is really easy to tear.

 

Thanks guys for all the input.

My ride is current going thru the run-in period so once the sound get "stabilized" my ride will go back into the workshop for another round of sound tuning and I'll have my installer to check for any nick or tear on the cables.

Will putting on Braided Cable Sleeve help?

 

If the cable is nicked and picking up noise that way I think it will.

Does your car audio shop install this wire allot? We have rolls of it at my work and it's time consuming to terminate the ends and to make look nice but it's excellent wire.

 

The easiest way to rule out the speaker wire is to disconnect it all from the amp and run a short piece of speaker wire to a hand held speaker.

Also 8tc speaker wire is not going to sound any different in your car than any other standard wire, plus as pointed out it will be much more prone to nicking the jacket which will then ground the amp to the car and sent it into protect mode.

 

Easier may be to disconnect it from the amp, and then check imprpedence between both sides and the chassis?