DIYMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

Uk Renault Laguna 5.1 install... Not just sound...

5.6K views 32 replies 7 participants last post by  B19EED  
#1 ·
This is going to get crazy... If you've started reading this please make sure you've set some time aside. The thought of listing all the things I've done to make this system should've made me reconsider pressing the 'new thread' button ::confused: where do I start....

The heart of my system is the thoroughly amazing JVC KD AVX77 because I'm e one of these audio-peeps who loves to tinker there wasn't a better choice for me. I mean, single din dvd 5.1 iPhone media hub -what's not to love??

I have it in Dolby pro-logic II music running 5.1 through a matched front stage and stock rear stage (the stock speakers sound better for rear effects than the pioneers did in the same location) speaking of pioneers, as this vehicle has tiny tiny gaps between the door speakers and the electric windows, mods are limited without major fabrication (which hasn't been ruled out!) so I have 2 sets of TS-Q131c's, but only 3 are in use.
My original set-up included the alpine SBS-05dc, which for a single din sized unit sounded surprisingly good... Just not quite good enough.
So it was time for drastic measures. With a lack of options for a single din full-range center channel I got out the soldering iron and set about on one of the scariest and craziest (but best) tasks I'd undertaken...

The JVC's front panel sits on a frame which drops to put discs in or tilt the display, as long as the front panel is connected it stays on (unlike countless flip front stereos which disconnect the panel pins when dropped, disactivating the display and deactivating it once the pins are reconnected and a switch is activated to tell the unit that the face is on) no doubt the JVC does have such a switch, but its activated by the frame on which the panel sits... Which got me thinking... If the panel is always on... Maybe I could... Maybe...

28 pins connect the front panel to the main unit, instead of these pins being a few mm's of copper connecting the 2 boards, mine are 10 feet long :) I now have a remotely mounted touch screen front panel monitor above my rear view mirror, and a head unit under my driver seat, connected to the car's wiring harness by a home-made 6foot ISO extension lead!! -this freed up a full double din space in my dash for a center speaker.

Center stage is taken care of by a pioneers TS-Q131c and a kenwood tweeter, ran from a JVC's 2 channel amp through a crossover network from an old paradigm home center speaker, which works very well for the pioneer but made the kenwood sound a bit brash and harsh, so an in-line bi-polar 2.2uf capacitor solved that, now it integrates properly with no obvious holes in the spectrum.
As its in 5.1 with the center width set at 1, very very little centered information is actually sent to the front speakers -so they're run directly from the head unit, as are the rears. As mentioned before the rears are stock, plastic basketed paper drivers which do the job surprisingly well, rear sound-steering is done very well by the JVC's PLII processor, and I choose to have the rear levels slightly higher than the fronts (cus I like surround sound :)) -the only major difference I've made to the rear channels is added a kenwood tweeter each side slightly higher that ear level at the tops of the pillars, which behave more like super-tweeters as i've put 1.1uf BP caps in line with them. -Such a small addition makes so so so much difference, and I'd recommend it to anyone just to open up the rear stage, also, rear speakers without tweeters are a bit "pro-logic-ish", as opposed to being pro-logic-II-ish with full spectrum steering *in stereo* -sounds fantastic as it is set up now, which took a very very very long time.
The JVC is fully manual to set up, crossovers, center width, panorama, distance, speaker size, speaker level etc. output to all 5 main channels is crossed at 120hz. Center width 1. Panorama on. Speaker size small. Distance is the JVC's own kind of TA, which took a very long time to get sounding right without front stage sounding skewed, rear stage sounding skewed, then getting all 3 stages to fit together was a nightmare, once that was achieved, it was time to set the distance, no lets call it TA of the sub...
...this final stage is dealt with by a 15" vibe black air sub and a Kenwood KAC-9152d via the seat mounted remote controller. Setting the upper frequency limit and level seems a lot more difficult with 5.1 than in previous set ups with 2ch+sub (I personally refuse to call it 2.1 as that's not what it is) as the .1 is actually its own channel, it deals with its own signal plus what the other 5 channels are throwing at it due to the shortfalls of the drivers as that's effectively what the JVC's crossover does, but in doing so its throwing time-aligned signals from the 5 main channels -6 channels worth of low frequency information -frequencies which are the easiest to skew -especially with it all being summed into mono :confused:

As if THAT wasn't enough, listen to what else the .1 does.... In my quest for surround effects and sound manipulation I went a step further so I could create effects on the subwoofer channel. Introducing, never before seen in a car, a behringer bass guitar effects pedal. This Beauty has been stripped, foot switch removed, upper and lower effects potentiometers removed and extended from the board, then re-installed on the dash with a pretty illuminated switch! years and years ago I had a pioneer head unit with a dsp effect called "octaver" -an effect I have fairly accurately recreated with the behringer. Mid-bass and frequencies slightly higher than what you'd call mid bass are not handled to well with a 15" subwoofer dealing with 6 channels worth of mono low frequency signals, so the behringer effectively recreates them a full octave below the original frequency, but it doesn't remove the original signal, so they're amplified and output in tandem through the sub as well as the higher (original) signals being reproduced by the door speakers. Putting such an effect into words isn't easy, nor is putting it into practice though! When the pedal is off the original signal bypasses the dsp so it's standard, but when it's on the original and adjusted signals can be controlled independently. Some recordings are made 50% better, some are made 100% worse, but hey, that's what it's all about -or the stock head unit would still be in ;);)



More than sound....

The spec list and features run down for the KD-AVX77 does not mention one of its best features, it has video out which is active ALL THE TIME. Obviously its in use if youre watching dvd's or iphone videos or netflix but also If you're playing a cd with text or an mp3 cd, it shows a list of track names, artist name, album name, time, album art. It does the same for iPod/iPhone too, with the same display including artwork, in addition, if you've got your iPhone on random there's no way of knowing the next song, well JVC breaks that wall down by giving you the list of the next 20 tracks! Yeah yeah I know it takes the whole randomness out of being random -but you don't have to have a screen plugged in if you don't want to know!
Speaking of screens, my car is one step shy of flagship, which means it didn't get sat nav, instead it get a radio readout and tyre pressure monitoring screen in a smaller pod atop the dash... Well that's where they were... Now they're remotely mounted against the center console with extended wiring to free up that space for the bigger sat nav pod to house a 5.8" necvox screen, constantly run by the JVC's constant video out, looks standard, performs perfectly. A further 2 4.3" no-make Chinese LCD screens are glued onto the headrest bars, separately switched and ran via a video amplifier.

Screens aren't the only visual aspect to my system, and these other bits are what make it mine... I have a 7x5 led spectrum analyzer showing the signal for the center channel, a 7x10 led spectrum analyzer showing the summed signal of RL and RR, 4 x 10 led level meters for each of the 4 channels being driven by the JVC and a 40 led meter showing subwoofer level. Two led voltmeters, one for the vehicle system (via the cigarette lighter power socket which runs all this *extra* stuff) and the other used to be on top of the 1farad capacitor in the boot, it's still connected to it and its only on when a large current is drawn.
Because I like surround sound, and for when I'm tinkering or improving the sound stages I can switch off the center channel and sub channel amps independently using my PIAA switches mounted on the center console. Another switch turns on the analysers, and the final switch turns on the rear LCD monitors. In addition to the analysers and level meters the switch also turns on the led strips on the back of the pioneers, oh, did I forget to mention the front stage is back-lit?? :D

Welcome to my system, all made up of fairly inexpensive components, a few home made modules, a few butchered wiring mods and several unique ideas... All put together by someone with too much spare time who's never been taught anything electrical....

Thank-you :)
 
#16 ·
I found my way onto this forum by following andy wehmeyer through different discussions in different places about the jbl ms8. I'm a bit of a sucker for multi-channel and the ms-8 boasting logic 7 grabbed my attention...
From what I understand, the rear (effects) steering on L7 is similar to PLII so it probably wouldn't be much more effective than the AVX77's rear channel, but I was grabbed by the 2 extra channels :) although it seems my hopes might've been dashed by the understanding that the jbl's extra 2 rear channels are just time delayed from the other 2 rears... Is this correct? I just wondered if I would benefit from it in any way? (Aside from having to find 2 extra speaker locations) and not needing to run any speakers at all from the JVC))
From what I've done already would I be ultimately disappointed with the LACK of user adjustable features on the jbl? Sure it's got a nice eq (something the JVC doesn't have in PLII mode) and it sets itself up, is that enough of a trade-up? -bearing in mind the setting itself up isn't what I want it for, I'd like it to take weeks of trial and error! Am I right in thinking all the JVC's effect and adjustments will become null and void? Seems like it might be a massive Investment for a less tinkerable system? At least it's got a pretty display(!)
Hopefully this tread will be seen by andy wehmeyer...
 
#17 ·
That is one hell of an install. I am at a total loss of words, that really is top notch, and it's great to see something I haven't seen before. Really, A+.
 
#20 ·
Yeah, it's an iPad, that will happen, lol.
 
#24 ·
It's been a long time, but here are some more updates...
Not 100% impressed with the sound of the center channel I noticed a small area of dash which hadn't been butchered, and more importantly had nothing behind it... Cue the soldering iron and heated knife blade.
It now houses an old school 7 band graphic equalizer solely for the center channel, back-lit by several colour morphing LED's. Easily reachable whilst driving, so any song which requires a bit of tinkering can be done on the fly, not like those ridiculous boot mounted EQ's which require you to pull over to adjust in pursuit of the perfection you'll never find.
Another sizeable modification is the addition of a leisure battery in the boot, purely for the head unit, monitors, bass adjusting circuits and center channel amp, so they all have their own clean power supply. It's charged whenever the car battery is above 12.9v. There are 2 separate LED volt meters mounted beside the boost gauge to monitor the voltage before and after the switching circuit used at 12.9v.(ignition switched) Below that voltage the 2nd display reads 0.00 and the first will read the vehicle electrical system's voltage, but once the engine is started the 2nd display shows the charging voltage into the 2nd battery (minus whatever is being drawn by the connected devices). The switching circuit output is also connected to 4x 40amp relays so that when activated the 2 batteries are pretty much connected. A separate 0gauge cable has been run just for the charging of the leisure battery, a bit overkill I know, but I manages to acquire a 15m roll of it for around the same price as an 8gauge wiring kit so thought I might as well use it :)
Goodbye PIAA switches... These have now been replaced by 7 touch sensitive panel switches, the bottom four of these do the same jobs the 4 old switches used to do, but with the addition of the extra battery the top three all have new tasks...
The head unit is fed directly from the leisure battery, but through an ignition switched relay, so even though it isn't connected to the car it is still controlled by the ignition. Until the top switch is pressed, then it bypasses the ignition relay so it can be on without anything else (all amplifiers are still ignition controlled) but the 2x volt meters beside the boost gauge have their own relays bypassed too, so now they show the voltage of battery 1 and battery 2. The top switch is active and illuminated red all the time, even when the car is locked and everything is inactive, but Once the top switch is pressed the two switches below it turn red too, one is for an adjustable 2.1amp voltage regulator for my electronic cigarette, it's set at 5.1v and connected to 3 different phono chassis sockets around the car which it plugs into, using a modified usb passthrough adapter. The same 5.1v 2a supply is connected to a USB port beside the center speaker for charging my ipad, at the same time as the JVC charges my iphone or iPod.
The third switch from the top turns on both inverters, one of which powers the stripped down and re-housed PC, the other supplies 220vAC to the trailing mains socket behind the passenger seat, and the monitor socket (IEC) beside the passenger seat, in a small box which also houses a vga (d-sub) socket and a HDMI socket, which are all used for the 24" LG 3d computer monitor, vga is fed from the pc. The HDMI, which is for the xbox 360, which can either be plugged in behind the seat or in the boot.
Audio for the PC or xbox is played through the rear speakers. A small toggle switch has been added on the rear of the center console which turns on a roof mounted Bluetooth receiver with an aux input, powered by another voltage regulator set at 9.4v 3a. Audio input is connected directly to the pc and also to 4 x phono plugs, 2 In the front and 2 in the rear so any set can be used for the rear speakers, which are disconnected from the head unit whenever the ignition is off through 2 x 12v DPDT relays as the speaker outputs from the "blackbox" Bluetooth can't be connected straight to the outputs of the headunit as an 'off' amplifier would create a massive load across the channels of whichever amp is active, hence the need for the relays. (been there, done that, not ideal) the xbox can actually be played whilst the vehicle is in motion by the rear seat passengers, albeit not in hd, through a separate 15.6" drop down roof monitor which has been modified to sit in the back edge of the sunroof recess, with audio still powered by the blackbox, through the rear speakers which are disconnected from the headunit by the toggle switch/relays.
The drop down screen has a din plug connector which is normally hidden in the rubber for the rear door, but pulls out to just the right length once the monitor has been slid into place. As this is rarely used the 12v supply for it is a direct 3a fused connection to the vehicle battery with no switching. The monitor has 2 inputs, one is for the xbox and the other terminates at another phono chassis socket between the front and rear doors, with a modified cable in the seat back pocket which has a phono one end and an apple dock plug on the other, so video from the iPhone can be sent to the 15.6" screen while the audio gets Bluetooth'd straight to the blackbox then on to the rear speakers.
The last update has been the subwoofer...
I'm still using the same 15" vibe black air driver, but it's not in an enclosure any more. Cue the jigsaw... The parcel shelf had the entire middle section removed and replaced by a piece of 18mm chipboard with a vibe shaped hole in the middle, glued braced screwed and siliconed in place to make it able to support the 15" drive unit, then all the contours were filed and smoothed out, then it was covered with acoustically transparent cloth to look like just a boring old flat grey original-ish shelf. Then came the trial and error. Turns out you can't mimmick a speaker enclosure with an entire boot, especially when you're not using a free air subwoofer. But with enough polyurethane foam you can balance it just enough the present enough reflected air back at the bottom of the cone at the same time as just enough sound waves can escape... It results in a sound which doesn't have the boominess or the reverb of bouncing around the boot then through the shelf, then reflecting off the rear window before making its way to your ears, all of which makes the driving beat of a song sound somewhat out if time when using a typical bass enclosure.
Now, however, it's all tied in, it sound as if all the speakers in the car are complimenting each other and reacting to the same signals all in time, no delays on the bass, and the only evident delays are the ones I've manufactured using the time alignment of the headunit.
The only flaw in the system is the fact that the sub can now bottom out, and reach xmax more readily (xmax : maximum excursion of the voice coil) but this can be remedied by using the bass effects system I designed in the first post, as it double layers the bass frequencies and makes the bass seem somewhat "more" even though it's not.
-The bass effects also sound much better since I threw the enclosure away, as the sub was always trying to produce two sounds at the same time, which resulted in (I assume) stray waves and pressures inside the enclosure hitting the rear of the come and distorting the sounds it was trying to create, which in turn coloured the next wave, and the next, and so on... But now it's clean. Controlled. Tight. Deep and somehow -proper....
Even though it's not, at least not the way it was intended, somehow it's better though.... :)