When you have two drivers.

 

 

Idk, i make my boxes with double baffles, one inlaid, and brace above 500w

 

Your about to embark into the world of multiple subs n big power. You will need a double baffle and bracing. Or your box is gonna look like this.

 

His box is flexing more than his body panels!

 

I brace anything with a panel area over 12". You don't have to double baffle if you the brace around the sub. Double baffle does typically offer a more aesthetically pleasing look with countersinking.



What's worse is he seems to be pleased with his panel flexing and it would flex even more if he braced the subwoofer box.

 

Google Search

 

I double baffle and brace no matter what. Overkill on an enclosure is never a problem but not building it strong enough is always a problem.

 

I generally do as well. But there are some limits. Weight can quuckly get out of hand on large boxes, plus smaller boxes do not need as much bracing. Plus woofer size can make double baffle unneeded. Do you double baffle a single 8 or 10 in a box less than 1 cuft? i mean i would, but that doesn't make it needed. Which is what the OP is asking

 

Necessary? That depends on a number of factors such as cabinet materials and thickness, panel dimensions / box size, driver size, power, target output level, goals such as SPL or SQ, and other possible considerations such as cabinet weight, budget, cabinet building skills / limitations, etc.

In short, if you're wondering if you need double baffle and bracing, you probably do.

 

I remember around 20 years ago Cadence had prefab enclosures with a 1/4" back wall. They called it flexibox or something. The idea was too let the box resonate and add to bass response. There was a review in one of the car audio mags where they said when they slapped the back of the box they could hear the output it added.
I remember it because it was a great example of car audio voodoo marketing. Give the customer less but convince them it's more. The other side of that coin is overkill with no conceivable benefit ASR great cost.
My take is bracing is effective, takes less material and increases box rigidity, not just baffle rigidly. Doubling the baffle requires bonding the layers and should still include bracing. We did that often to flush subs, match vehicle cosmetics, etc but never in place of bracing.

 

An easy way to deal with the issue, as I do a lot in custom carpentry..
if there is a shadow of a doubt in your mind, go the extra mile to make it stronger.

in the case of box building, your tools are out, youre at the store, pay it forward to avoid disappointment on the back end

 

Also don’t skimp on hardware, dont use drywall screws
something like grk or spax lines of fasteners are more expensive because their load and sheer ratings are way higher.

 

I try to average 4-6x #8 stainless screws per edge with 4x #12/#14 stainless in cornerpoints around the sub to connect the double baffle (including titebond blue label or liquid nails between the baffles)

 

Brace yourselves (pun intended) for the ensuing debate about drywall screws, glue, nails, brads, clamps...

 

Never did single baffle sub just because double baffle offers good flush fit without compromising thickness of mounting baffle....

 

Just saying....

 

The interesting thing about wood glue like titebond, the joint can become stronger than the wood itself. You almost have to try it for yourself to know. One test I did years ago was build a three piece corner out of solid alder and pin it with 23 gauge nails, then let it cure for about a week, then put it on the ground and jump on it. it Doesn’t break. If it does break, it will break away from the glue. Then you start asking yourself, “hmm maybe I need better wood”

there’s science in glues

 

OP is gonna run 3 or 4 DC subs on like 6k or 8k. I don't remember what he settled with. But bracing and double baffle will be needed.

 

Yeah I'm going with 4 DC Audio level 3 12's. Double baffle for sure. But I'm going with 3/8 threaded rods for bracing. 2 each direction with washers and lock nuts on the inside and washers with acorns on the outside of the wood panels. Don't think I'm going to countersink I want it as solid as possible. The rods only take up .04 cube of space.

As for the 6k idk for sure yet. It seems like you gotta pull a fast and furious hijack to get a yinlong right now and ya can't make power if ya can't get power. But we'll see after the holidays what shows up.

I was just curious about what other people's take on the double baffling question would be.

 

Blue locktite and E6000

 

 

A lot of things come into play. Woofer weight, how many, size of baffle...

Here's one for a 65lb 15 prior to going through the router to round the corners.

Here's one I'm building for four ZVX 15s. Outer walls are single layer for now. Subs will mount on the top (facing the camera) and will be triple layer baffle. Lots of bracing to go in this one.

 

Nice toes.
🤭

 

Nice toes.
🤭

Fab flobs/safety sandals. Standard shop attire.