[mumbles]

You know, sometimes I just read this thread when I want to feel stupid! 😔

 

[Matt2023]

Had to start from scratch for my drivers dash setup, while the shape looks the same at a glance and the OEM speaker is the same, there is significantly more angle/curves in it, so a simple mirror of passenger side was way off.

Is also closer to the glass, so going to redesign it so the cover clips in and speakers are complelty hidden. I was avoiding trying to nail picking up the oem mounting clips, but thinking one step further i have my own piece under there i can just clip into.

 

[OAW]

Elegoo is having a decent sale right now, $120 shipped for 10 spools of ASA. I got my box within 3 business days.

Elegoo ASA Filament 1.75mm 10KG

ELEGOO ASA Filament 1.75mm, UV & Weather Resistant, ASA 3D Printer Filament, Perfect for Outdoor Functional Parts, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm Excellent UV & Weather Resitstance: ELEGOO ASA filament can withstand prolonged exposure to water and sunlight without degrading or yellowing...

us.elegoo.com

 

[diy.phil]

Will that HT-PLA filament mentioned recently warp or shrink during/after prInt?

 

[BobTheBirdTurd]

Will that HT-PLA filament mentioned recently warp or shrink during/after prInt?

We'll find out, I have a spool coming tomorrow of the GF version.

 

[diy.phil]

Random prints of the week...

Side brackets to hold 2 overhead light controllers together. The hole at the side is to get to the power switch.

Pass-thru long grommet or mini-conduit so that some audio cables can go to the other side of this wall...

Replacement bracket/holder for a fire extinguisher. Has a 5 mm diameter screw in the pin for reinforcement.

 

[Jscoyne2]

 

[mumbles]

Okay, I don't know squat about 3D printing, but how big is the bed you're printing on?

 

[Sounds_Insane]

I printed some weapons before. The sword from the cover of Final Fantasy NES game, some mace I made up and the Forgemasters Hammer from the Castlevania animated series.

The first sword has a 1/2" aluminum rod in it, the other 2 have a piece of rebar, for weight and strength.

 

[Sounds_Insane]

So I have been having some frustrating prints the past few days, so I thought I'd share the solution in hope it helps someone.

I've been printing a box, about 4"x7" to hold circuit breaks for my brother's build.

I printed it out of black ASA, same settings I always do, no problems. Then I changed the design and didn't think I had enough material so I switched to white ASA, same brand, a new roll.

The white curled up and warped and had ugly top layers. I kept starting over but the first layer was not sticking well. re-leveled the bed, cleaned the bed, changed from a solid slice to 20% infill, even switched to concentric bottom layers but nothing helped.

Finally I upped the nozzle temp from 240 to 250 and that solved it, it's printing completely fine. I don't know why the white is different. It kind of makes sense that the first layer was getting pulled back up as the lines turned from too cool of filament.

 

[Uberverbosity]

Are you printing in a heated enclosure?
It's tough to print large stuff in ASA at room temperature.

 

[Sounds_Insane]

Are you printing in a heated enclosure?
It's tough to print large stuff in ASA at room temperature.

Yeah, I have an enclosed printer. I usually have no problems with ABS or ASA at all, that's why this was so frustrating.

 

[BobTheBirdTurd]

So I have been having some frustrating prints the past few days, so I thought I'd share the solution in hope it helps someone.

I've been printing a box, about 4"x7" to hold circuit breaks for my brother's build.

I printed it out of black ASA, same settings I always do, no problems. Then I changed the design and didn't think I had enough material so I switched to white ASA, same brand, a new roll.

The white curled up and warped and had ugly top layers. I kept starting over but the first layer was not sticking well. re-leveled the bed, cleaned the bed, changed from a solid slice to 20% infill, even switched to concentric bottom layers but nothing helped.

Finally I upped the nozzle temp from 240 to 250 and that solved it, it's printing completely fine. I don't know why the white is different. It kind of makes sense that the first layer was getting pulled back up as the lines turned from too cool of filament.

Yep, different colors can be different. Not typically, but they can. I've had the PC-CF I use change a couple times that's required me to do all the filament re-calibrations to adjust temp and flow.

 

[Jscoyne2]

Okay, I don't know squat about 3D printing, but how big is the bed you're printing on?

like 10x10inches. Its just pieces glues together

 

[rj70]

Fitted these a while ago, replaced the dash mounted tweeters. I had previously played with just swapping out the tweeters but the covers were so restrictive it didn't offer much benefit. I scanned the original covers and modelled replacements with built in mounting for the new drivers

Printed in ASA as anything else would warp with their position on the dash and being thin and flattish. Printed in the upright position as the contours would come out smoother and need much less sanding to get a good finish, small imperfections become visible once the covering is glued down.

With the original covers attached this did not work well.

 

[Ru']

We'll find out, I have a spool coming tomorrow of the GF version.

Did you get a chance to put the HT PLA through its paces yet (apologies if I missed it)?

 

[BobTheBirdTurd]

Did you get a chance to put the HT PLA through its paces yet (apologies if I missed it)?

Not yet, been busy and haven't had any time to do test prints. I do have something I wanted to try it with though when I was making a template of my dash corner. Regular PLA+ softened withing about 3-5 minutes to the point I couldn't pick it up without it being like a limp noodle. May print one and toss it in to see if it does the same thing on my dash.

 

[Ru']

Not yet, been busy and haven't had any time to do test prints. I do have something I wanted to try it with though when I was making a template of my dash corner. Regular PLA+ softened withing about 3-5 minutes to the point I couldn't pick it up without it being like a limp noodle. May print one and toss it in to see if it does the same thing on my dash.

Let us know the outcome

 

[BobTheBirdTurd]

Update on the PLA-GF HT filament. Better than PLA, yep. Would I put it on my dash or in a hot car? Nope.

Red is regular PLA that was on my work table today outside, been on it for a couple hours and it in the lower 90s today, not even hot for Texas.

Warped like crazy, unusable. So I made 2 out othe the PLA-GF HT stuff. Said screw it and tossed one on the dash for one hour and tossed the other on top of the trash can.

If you need a filament that is easy to print prototypes out of that needs to withstand some heat, this will work well; an ASA, PC, PA replacement it is not.

Trash can one, it's still straight.

Dash one in just 1 hour. Better than regular PLA, this one would have been like trying to hold a wet noodle if regular PLA.

Middle one is straight.

 

[Ru']

Update on the PLA-GF HT filament. Better than PLA, yep. Would I put it on my dash or in a hot car? Nope.

Red is regular PLA that was on my work table today outside, been on it for a couple hours and it in the lower 90s today, not even hot for Texas.

Warped like crazy, unusable. So I made 2 out othe the PLA-GF HT stuff. Said screw it and tossed one on the dash for one hour and tossed the other on top of the trash can.

If you need a filament that is easy to print prototypes out of that needs to withstand some heat, this will work well; an ASA, PC, PA replacement it is not.



View attachment 496111


Trash can one, it's still straight.
View attachment 496112


Dash one in just 1 hour. Better than regular PLA, this one would have been like trying to hold a wet noodle if regular PLA.
View attachment 496114


Middle one is straight.
View attachment 496115

View attachment 496116

Thanks for the real-world testing