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Glad some random internet stranger got a rise out of you and made you come back buddy (y),

I like to maintain indirectness out of habit from my line of work and honestly, this is just some public forum but with more level-headed and concise users (for the most part) than the emoji-driven cesspools that are all Facebook groups.

Nothing against that specific brand honestly, and its small enough that it doesn't really matter in the big picture of an (also) very small market.

Yet as a tale old as time, someone asks for some sound-deadening advice, a brand, and research done at a suburban garage get thrown around like gospel regardless of what the person asked, someone calls those out, and brand new accounts flood the thread, the thread dies out, OP never really got an answer rinse-N-repeat.

This is all amateur hour, there's a reason why other companies don't join these types of useless discussions. I would like to respond to others but I honestly don't care enough.

and It all started with me trying to bring back the focus to what the original user requested, something budget-friendly...jeesh. Let's see what other threat gets flooded after this one.
For what it's worth, I answered his question in post #4.
 
If you can use less and get a similar result. That is budget friendly.

Some of the most profitable and useful tech, along with car safety features, and car radios were all originally tested(invented /designed/perfected) in "some" guys garage.

Some people can't see practical as practice, only as hype.

By the way I had killmat completely separate and fall all over my Blazer and equipment. The adhesive held. It was still stuck to my vehicle. The butyl mix just melted and separated allowing the aluminum side to fall. The rep even told me they had a bunch of failures and they were doing something about it. They were great with customer service but I can never recommend that product again.
 
Glad some random internet stranger got a rise out of you and made you come back buddy (y),

I like to maintain indirectness out of habit from my line of work and honestly, this is just some public forum but with more level-headed and concise users (for the most part) than the emoji-driven cesspools that are all Facebook groups.

Nothing against that specific brand honestly, and its small enough that it doesn't really matter in the big picture of an (also) very small market.

Yet as a tale old as time, someone asks for some sound-deadening advice, a brand, and research done at a suburban garage get thrown around like gospel regardless of what the person asked, someone calls those out, and brand new accounts flood the thread, the thread dies out, OP never really got an answer rinse-N-repeat.

This is all amateur hour, there's a reason why other companies don't join these types of useless discussions. I would like to respond to others but I honestly don't care enough.

and It all started with me trying to bring back the focus to what the original user requested, something budget-friendly...jeesh. Let's see what other threat gets flooded after this one.
It's not really that you got a rise out of me, its more along the lines of disputing false information, like the idea that I've been paid to do any of my testing or that I have some brand bias or loyalty that affects the results.

The results are simply the results. Some products are good, some are mediocre, some are garbage. Some perform better with less coverage than more coverage of a worse performing product, sometimes enough so to make the more expensive product cheaper for the same performance, all things considered. Some have great heat resistance, some don't. Some companies know what they are doing, some are buying off the shelf products as cheap as possible, and some make their own product. Some survive solely on false marketing. One lost all of my respect after an hour long conversation with their "engineer", which made it clear they have no idea what they are doing, and couldn't care less about their customers.

In the end, the results are still the results, and are as good as it gets in terms of independent testing, and do a very good job of comparing constrained layer dampers in a controlled environment. Its not perfect, but neither is ASTM-E 756, and my testing is absolutely good enough to figure out what products do what.
 
It's not really that you got a rise out of me, its more along the lines of disputing false information, like the idea that I've been paid to do any of my testing or that I have some brand bias or loyalty that affects the results.

The results are simply the results. Some products are good, some are mediocre, some are garbage. Some perform better with less coverage than more coverage of a worse performing product, sometimes enough so to make the more expensive product cheaper for the same performance, all things considered. Some have great heat resistance, some don't. Some companies know what they are doing, some are buying off the shelf products as cheap as possible, and some make their own product. Some survive solely on false marketing. One lost all of my respect after an hour long conversation with their "engineer", which made it clear they have no idea what they are doing, and could care less about their customers.

In the end, the results are still the results, and are as good as it gets in terms of independent testing, and do a very good job of comparing constrained layer dampers in a controlled environment. Its not perfect, but neither is ASTM-E 756, and my testing is absolutely good enough to figure out what products do what.
I’ll be damned….well said and welcome back!!!!!!;)
 
I was going to buy the cheap stuff, but ended up getting a deal on 20 sq ft of ResoNix along with the ccf foam speaker rings. I have under $1000 in my entire system (subs, 2 amps, hear unit, deadener, 3-way front + coaxials back, wire) so I fully understand being budget-minded. Your best bet on a budget is to buy the ResoNix Lite. It comes in 36 sq ft bundle. If that's too much, buy the Amazon basics. Don't buy Siless or Kilmat. You'll thank me later. I have a QX4 Infiniti SUV and for my purposes I found the 20 ft I got to be just right to do all the areas I wanted to do. It just depends how much you're willing to tear your car apart.
 
It's not really that you got a rise out of me, its more along the lines of disputing false information, like the idea that I've been paid to do any of my testing or that I have some brand bias or loyalty that affects the results...
There should be a little silly forum achievement award for "getting someone to come back after 7 years" you can keep writing walls of texts, but the knowledge you claim to gain dont mean anything as long as they are on public forums, facebook and some wordpress template website.

Perhaps publish a cited white paper and you might gain a bit foothold. The customers here always eat this stuff up like candy, but thats as far as itll ever go. People in the larger echelon of things that lurk around here dont need to step in and defend. Im just killing time here at work so sure you win/ youre right/ thumbs up - this all reminds me of the Lord of The Flies Novel, good read.
 
Yet as a tale old as time, someone asks for some sound-deadening advice, a brand, and research done at a suburban garage get thrown around like gospel regardless of what the person asked, someone calls those out, and brand new accounts flood the thread, the thread dies out, OP never really got an answer rinse-N-repeat.
Pretty sure They had SAE testing for Resonix.. Don't know whats better than that

edit: here they did Mega Pro too

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owns 2006 Honda Accord
Lol I love sound treatment threads. 🤣 I don't know what's funnier the the ppl suggesting or the ppl that get offended by the suggestions. Ressonix is the best, everything else still works( just not as good). Choose something that's within your budget, doesn't melt, and doesn't smell like ass.....phalt.

@Chris Purdue. I'll be using the D4S deadner in my next project. Still haven't bought all of it yet, but I'll be using a combo of their 200,120,80mil . If it's alright with you I want to sent a piece of each to you. Just to add to the list of already tested. 😃
 
Resonix user here.
If you want to know how that heat shield piece is, pull it off. These newer cheap stuff (Kilmat, siles, noico, etc) don't exactly melt, but are like stringy melted foamy marshmallow. You can even see particles from fillers. When it gets older, I can tell it's not what it used to be. I don't know D4s, but I assume it'd be just like these but thicker. Some stuff does melt.. the old Fat mat from back in the day is oozing out of my VW headliner. Someday Ill have to take some pictures of the carnage.

I'm sure this gets posted all the time > Sound Deadener Independent Testing

Using Chris's data, I've use a few other brands I was ok with.

Harmony: is thinner, but still has some weight to it.. I like it for plastic panels and because its cheap. If I had a choice, this is way better than Kilmat marshmallow junk. doesn't always seem super sticky. I usually warm it up some and it goes on better. Needs to be doubled up to match higher up products..

NVX: not a bad product, probably the closest to Resonix, a little thinner and lighter, but similar feel. A good "budget" option, but if you are serious and want "the best" this isn't quite it. I noticed when removing a piece, the aluminum separated fairly easy. I was at least I was able to use the butyl in other places once it was off. NVX is like cheaper Resonix, but the cost to performance is going down proportionally in my opinion.

Resonix: Resonix is the "best". This is a premium product. As soon as you feel the weight, you know this is something different. I would compare it to butyl rope (heavy, stretchy) but Imagine a whole sheet of it. I was telling someone, I can see how this would save an installer time. You don't need to "double up" anything. Or feel like you need to go back and add more. You might get Kilmat and others to work, but you will need 3-4 times the layers. which is 3-4x the labor, as well as questionable attachment and performance.
Something people don't always mention is the glue on deadeners. Resonix has been the only one I have to actually be careful, or it will start sticking to stuff. This feature also makes installing it faster. You don't have to "roll" over it 10x like others. Once it gets pressure, you are stuck. If you have to remove it for some reason, good luck. I even like that it has no logo on it. Like the product speaks for itself. It's just there to do what it's supposed to.

Like they say, buy once, cry once. If you think it costs too much, that's fine. There's products for other budgets. So, I'm now here crying.. I could have gone all Resonix with the money spent on all these others.
something to consider. It’s not really buy once cry once. Unless your holding onto the vehicle for a while I doubt you’d notice a difrenc
Lol I love sound treatment threads. 🤣 I don't know what's funnier the the ppl suggesting or the ppl that get offended by the suggestions. Ressonix is the best, everything else still works( just not as good). Choose something that's within your budget, doesn't melt, and doesn't smell like ass.....phalt.

@Chris Purdue. I'll be using the D4S deadner in my next project. Still haven't bought all of it yet, but I'll be using a combo of their 200,120,80mil . If it's alright with you I want to sent a piece of each to you. Just to add to the list of already tested. 😃
I kinda feel like asking which sound deadner is best is like asking what speaker sounds the best. Everyone is going to have a different opinion, than you weigh the pros and cons and decide.
 
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something to consider. It’s not really buy once cry once. Unless your holding onto the vehicle for a while I doubt you’d notice a difrenc


I kinda feel like asking which sound deadner is best is like asking what speaker sounds the best. Everyone is going to have a different opinion, than you weigh the pros and cons and decide.
Unlike speakers, there is actual testing and data that proves one is better than the other. Whether or not one chooses to believe the data. That is for them to decide. Testing data backs up the claim that ResoNix is one of if not the best CLD out there. There the controversy starts is whether or not the added price for said better product is necessary and worth it. Then you simply have the hatters that will bash it no matter what.
 
something to consider. It’s not really buy once cry once. Unless your holding onto the vehicle for a while I doubt you’d notice a difrenc
This thread is asking which one is the best. Assuming the goal is to make your car the best it can be. If you want to save money, and buy a less effective product, that's fine. And If you do that because you don't think you'll have the car that long, that's fine too. You will just never have a car that's as good as it could be 🤷‍♂️ The reason I'm crying, Ive purchased cheaper ones, they have clearly deteriorated or perform not even close to Resonix, making me wish I Just went w Resonix the first time and be done with it. Not only is it wasted money, but time spent installing the crappy stuff, a lot of the time multiple layers, and time removing the crappy stuff (takes longer than installing usually). How much is your time worth?

As far as different opinions, this is not. There are opinions on what is the best for the money, as there is with anything.. I have mine. But as far as performance, There are measurable tests and data. Like one car has 60 HP and another identical car has 200HP, which one will be faster? hmm, that's a hard one!
 
owns 2006 Honda Accord
This thread is asking which one is the best. Assuming the goal is to make your car the best it can be. If you want to save money, and buy a less effective product, that's fine. And If you do that because you don't think you'll have the car that long, that's fine too. You will just never have a car that's as good as it could be 🤷‍♂️ The reason I'm crying, Ive purchased cheaper ones, they have clearly deteriorated or perform not even close to Resonix, making me wish I Just went w Resonix the first time and be done with it. Not only is it wasted money, but time spent installing the crappy stuff, a lot of the time multiple layers, and time removing the crappy stuff (takes longer than installing usually). How much is your time worth?

As far as different opinions, this is not. There are opinions on what is the best for the money, as there is with anything.. I have mine. But as far as performance, There are measurable tests and data. Like one car has 60 HP and another identical car has 200HP, which one will be faster? hmm, that's a hard one!
im not crying I bought second skin. Working just fine for me. Maybe there are tests that say it’s not as good but my ears can’t tell.
 
Nothing wrong with SecondSkin, especially if you got it for a discount. Is ResoNix better, yea. But will you be able to tell the difference? I doubt it. If you find a spot that needs more, add more. Where you will find a difference is when you are running low and have to start skimping. I would feel more comfortable with skimping with ResoNix than others.
 
owns 2022 Ford Explorer ST
I put about 100 sq. ft. of deadener in my car, that's not doubling up layers, just what it takes to hit most of the surfaces, and I didn't even do the floor of the cabin.

Cost me about $200
Resonix would be $1,350

Is there really going to be 5 times the performance?

I also used 15 feet of 3M Thinsulate 400, $135, so I'm still a grand cheaper.

To me, it's not worth the extra money for minimal return on investment.
 
Born too soon to see the OG deadening tests
Born too late to see the second coming of Nick
Born just in time to see @Chris Purdue hop back on

As far as the whole argument of "you can get more product for less money".. I think a lot of people subconsciously ignore that say, 1/4 coverage of product A will perform as well as 3/4 coverage of product B(as an example) - since having 100% coverage is more aesthetically pleasing and it fits the moar = betterer angle.. For me, after having knukonceptz melt and ruin door panels(and my mental well-going for a bit).. I will pay extra for products that pass heat testing as well as good dampening factors.
 
I was logged in to update my build log, which currently is doing acoustical treatments to my new car. I see "sound deadening" and the acoustical engineer in me can't resist. This thread is going as expected. Unfortunately, I cannot be totally objective here because I am using most of the Resonix products in my new car, and even though this is the first time I have used the products, I am a fan after spending a few dozen hours installing them. I don't understand why it became a discussion about Resonix, but I can share how I came to use the products.

Over 13 years ago I was putting fiberglass batt in plastic bags to add sound absorption, now I can use Resonix Guardian and it adds an interior barrier that I couldn't replicate. 20 years ago I was using vinyl flooring, then the budget "MLV" sold on Home Depot to cover holes and block noise, now I can use Resonix moldable barrier. Over 20 years ago I was using weatherstripping foam to make gaskets between the speaker and door panel, now I can use a Resonix flexible CCF that bends easier and is the correct thickness and density. Over 20 years ago I was using budget Fatmat and Dynamat, then a decade using Raamaudio BXT II, now Resonix CLD. I've done several large builds using 100 sq.ft. or more, the performance of Resonix CLD is no joke, it's awesome and the difference from what I was using is staggering. 20 years ago I was using whatever soft stuff I could find to isolate panels, then Raamaudio Ensolite, and now Resonix CCF which is the nicest adhesive CCF I've ever used, it's perfect. 20 years ago I was stuffing whatever sound absorption I could find into cavities, usually polyfill, then Ultratouch, and now I can use Resonix Fibermat. I put more sound absorption in a car than most, usually a 50 cu.ft. bag of Ultratouch ends up crammed in every cavity is the starting point.

I have been passionately installing mobile audio since the early 1990's. i have been working for an engineering firm designing buildings for 18 years including acoustical engineering where I use a variety of acoustical products to solve noise problems. I started bringing the architectural acoustical products into my vehicles over a decade ago. The mobile audio industry is really far behind, but making good strides. I have seen a lot of improvements over the years by OEM, where now cars have sound absorption as common place. The most innovation that I have seen by aftermarket products has been by Resonix, even if the products are based on basic concepts, they take a no-corners-cut approach. Obviously, that comes at a price. I don't expect most people to spend $3k on acoustical treatments for a vehicle, especially when that usually grossly exceeds the equipment cost. But I'm not most people, I am hyper-focused on acoustics and acoustical treatments. For people like me, the benefit that Resonix products provide is worth it and I'm happy that I finally have a platform to use them since my last build was 9 years ago.

All that said, recommending products is tricky because most people are looking to spend as little as possible and they justify their purchase in a number of ways, knocking the stuff they couldn't afford is pretty common. This makes getting any objective opinion nearly impossible.

I have been sharing my builds online for as long as there has been internet forums. Anyone is welcome to see the ways I have been saving money while trying to build the quietest version of my cars as I could. And only recently, after a few decades, have I been able to level up to what Resonix has to offer. But I had plenty of success making my own products using raw materials, all of which I document in my build logs. If people want ideas for saving money, my 2001 Accord and 2014 Accord build logs are useful references.

To the OP - you have a lot of options ahead of you and you can check build logs for what people have been actually using and you'll learn a lot at the same time. But the success will be based on the execution and attention to detail. Deadener is just one of several products required to resolve acoustical issues.
 
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