Are you doing the installation yourself? At that budget, you're going to have a hard time building a system that meets your stated criteria but buying used will help.

 

You'll need head unit, DSP, amp(s), and speakers. You won't reach a premium level without a DSP. Realistically, you'll also need sound deadening. It's going to be tough with that budget, but not impossible if you do it yourself.

 

I am going to do the installation myself. Can you send me youtube videos for sound deadening? I always service my cars, so I am sure I can easily do it. Can you tell me which DSP to get? Amps, speakers? Tundra's speakers are 6 1/2 inches.

 

Yes, I am going to do the installation myself!!!

 

Go on YouTube and in the search window type "sound deadening car doors".

Skip the rear speakers, buy a 2-way set for the front (6.5" midbass and wideband 3"), a 5 channel amp, a Dayton Audio dsp, all the associated parts to connect/install the gear, a sub (shallow mount?) and build the sub box, oh, and a head unit. Staying under $1500 is going to be difficult....

 

You are the best! I am going to do the sound deadening this weekend.
1. Speakers: Any brand in mind for the 2 way speakers?
2. Amplifier: 5 Channel - JL Audio? Which one? Any difference?
3. Head Unit? Are they the same sound quality? Sony, Pioneer?

 

Dayton DSP, or miniDSP 6x8 would probably be the best for your budget, unless you find something used. Focus on the front speakers, adding rears will add extra cost, and unless it's done really well will hurt more than help. Amps, find something with the number of channels you need (5 would probably do), you don't need a ton of power, just a decent quality amp. Spend the rest on the nicest speakers you can.

 

There is a sweet Rockford 5 channel amp available in the classifieds. $395

 

I can't find it.
What do you thing about the Rockford Fosgate R600X5 5-Channel?

 

JL is overpriced for new. Avoid.

Speakers are subjective, but if you're patient you should be able to find a nice set in the classifieds. Products are posted all day, everyday.
Head units are basically feature driven. Apple car play/Android Auto, etc. On a budget system you'll be hard pressed to hear any difference.

 

JL is overpriced for new. Avoid.

Speakers are subjective, but if you're patient you should be able to find a nice set in the classifieds. Products are posted all day, everyday.
Head units are basically feature driven. Apple car play/Android Auto, etc. On a budget system you'll be hard pressed to hear any difference.

This short explanation clarifies everything!

 

what year/make volvo?

 

2021 XC40 premium Harman Kardon sound system.

 

Rockford Fosgate P1000X5

Direct from Crutchfield ($675) in mid November & decided to go a different route. Less than 15 hours of play time, in great condition, boxed up and ready for a new home. Amazing, clean (AB deliciousness) on the first 4 channels, powerful D on the 5th/subwoofer channel, versatile, built to...

www.diymobileaudio.com

 

What year tundra?

 

2010, Double Cab, No JBL radio. 6 speakers, no subwoofer, no amplifier.

 

What year is your Tundra? Double Cab, Crewmax, etc.?

I've been experimenting with my '08 Double Cab for a couple years now. I could share some tips.



Edit: I see you have a 2010 Double Cab from your other thread.

 

Yes, please!!!

 

I'd recommend going with an active 3-way setup for the front stage and finding a good shallow sub depending on where you can locate the subwoofer according to your other thread. I wouldn't worry about the rear speakers.

I'd try to find a used Stereo Integrity BM mkIII, mkIV, or mkV ($250-$500). They're no longer in production, but sometimes you can find some used ones. They're not cheap either. JL Audio TW3's ($430-$480) are also a good option, but expensive as well. I'd stay away from the Pioneer shallow's. I was not very impressed. Hopefully others can chime in on a good budget sub options that can meet your depth requirements.

For midbass, I'd try and stay with the OEM 6x9 size. The Audiofrog GS690 ($380) is a popular option. You could try and find a decent budget 6x9 component set and add a 2.5" midrange driver. Alpine, Focal, Infinity, etc. has some decent sets. CDT might have a decent 6x9 that'll work, but keep in mind that you'll only have 3" of mounting depth to work with. You could also go the 6.5" midbass route with an adapter. A lot more options available if you want to downsize.

For the dash speakers, you could go with the Audiofrog GS25 ($270) or Morel CCWR254 ($189). You'll have to get some mounting adaptors for the Morels. You could also go with some 3.5" midrange drivers, but have to do some major mods to the dash and grille. Both the Audiofrog and Morel are "wideband" drivers that will play higher frequencies, but having tweeters pointing on-axis sounds better to me than just widebands firing up into the windshield. It's an option that could work well for you.

For tweeters, you can mount them low on the A-pillars or get some replacement sail panels for a JBL equipped Tundra. Stereo Integrity M25 ($200), SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G H1396 ($85), and LPG 26NA ($100) are some good budget options that I can think of.

For a DSP, I'd go with either the Dayton Audio DSP-408 ($180) or miniDSP C-DSP 6x8 ($330).

I'd stick with either Kenwood, Sony, or Pioneer for your Head Unit. Feeding it a good quality source will be key here. I've been pleased with using Tidal with wireless Android Auto.

For amplifiers, I'd find a good class A/B amplifier for your mids/highs and a good class D for the midbass/sub. I love the Sony XM-GS4 ($250). You could also find some used old school class A/B amps for a good deal. JL Audio RD amps are good if you can find a good deal with them used. D'Amore Engineering E-Series Amplifiers seem like popular budget amps too.

 

3-way will NOT fit into your budget. 3-way will require 2 additional channels of amplification and a more expensive dsp. 3-way will also require custom modification to fit tweeters. I advise a 2-way with midbass (6.5") in doors and wideband (2.5-3.5") in dash.

 

I agree that's a good strategy on a budget.

I was curious how much I have invested in my active 3-way setup in my Tundra so I made a quick list. I spent a lot of time trying to find the best deals or best bang for the buck both new and used. My largest expense was my new Mosconi AS 100.4 that I plan to swap out for a used JL XD700/5.

I was "kind of" able to put my system together for under $1500 not including cables and measuring equipment. I also know prices have increased a lot recently. Here's a list of my purchases (w/ taxes+shipping) for reference if anyone is curious.

Stereo Integrity TM65 mkI pair
$115
DIYMA Classifieds
used on 06/03/2018

Dayton Audio DSP-408 w/bluetooth adapter
$147
Parts Express
new on 12/12/2019

Sony XM-GS4 Hi-Res Amplifier
$171
Sonic Electronix
new on 12/20/2019

Stereo Integrity BM mkIII
$125
FB Sound Quality Classifieds
used on 01/12/2020

Stereo Integrity M25 pair w/pods
$150
FB Sound Quality Classifieds
new on 04/02/2020

Atrend 10SME enclosure
$36
Sonic Electronix
new on 06/08/2020

Kenwood DDX9905s
$345
eBay
used on 07/04/2020

Stereo Integrity M3 copper pair
$145
FB Stereo Integrity Owners Group
used on 09/12/2020

Mosconi AS 100.4
$532
carfeature.de
new on 11/30/2019

or

JL Audio XD700/5
$200
DIYMA Classifieds
used on 04/30/2020


$1434 w/ JL XD700/5
$1766 w/ Mosconi AS 100.4

 

in my opinion, i would consider a set of these with a pair of Stevens Audio mb8 installed, then add a pair of tweeters that will work. i am not familiar with factory speaker location on that truck. you can paint the pods with the SEM Color Coat that matches your interior. also find some speaker grills that fit. i ordered a pair of 8" speaker grills from parts-express for my mb8 and they fit perfect.

8" Speaker Pods for 2007-2013 Toyota Tundra - Custom Speaker Pods

Car stereo installation solution. Add more speakers to the Front Door of your 2007-2013 Toyota Tundra with our 8" speaker pods. Upgrade your stereo and replace your factory radio.

customspeakerpods.com

here is a possible possible tweeter option. some prefer the silk:

SEAS Prestige 27TAFNC/G (H1397) 1" Aluminum Dome Tweeter

SEAS Prestige 27TAFNC/D (H1397) 1" Aluminum Dome Tweeter. High-quality tweeter in stock. Crossover and system matching advice available. Contact Madisound.

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

my $0.02.

i am by no means a professional.

 

Look, let's be realistic here, the OP is driving around in a 12 year out-dated beast and wants an AMAZING stereo for under $1k that is going to impress his GF, who has a BRAND NEW Volvo with an upgraded stereo, does anyone see the bigger problem here?

OK, I'm gonna take off my Car Stereo hat for a minute and put on my Dr. Phil hat and apply some tough love...

There is no way in hell, you are going to get an under $1k stereo, that impresses this woman. And looking at your vehicles, she is WAY out of your league...

So, as I see it you have two options:
1) BORROW $2,500 from this woman and add it to your $1k-$1.5k and MAYBE you can get a stereo that sounds as nice as hers...OR
2) Dump her and find a GF with a crappy old car (at least older than 2010) with a crappier stereo than you now have and SAVE yourself fifteen hundred dollars and the future humiliation of her dumping you down the road...

Next...

 

Look, let's be realistic here, the OP is driving around in a 12 year out-dated beast and wants an AMAZING stereo for under $1k that is going to impress his GF, who has a BRAND NEW Volvo with an upgraded stereo, does anyone see the bigger problem here?

OK, I'm gonna take off my Car Stereo hat for a minute and put on my Dr. Phil hat and apply some tough love...

There is no way in hell, you are going to get an under $1k stereo, that impresses this woman. And looking at your vehicles, she is WAY out of your league...

So, as I see it you have two options:
1) BORROW $2,500 from this woman and add it to your $1k-$1.5k and MAYBE you can get a stereo that sounds as nice as hers...OR
2) Dump her and find a GF with a crappy old car (at least older than 2010) with a crappier stereo than you now have and SAVE yourself fifteen hundred dollars and the future humiliation of her dumping you down the road...

Next...

Finally a voice of reason. I've been down this road many times. Do yourself a favor and slow the F down. A $1000 won't buy much these days. Use that $1000 and start with sound deadening at least the doors. You have now made your truck sound twice as nice. Next year buy a $1000 two way componentent speaker system. Keep adding slowly if you have to. You will never out do a brand new Volvo unless you spend at least $3000 and do your own install.

 

With that budget you might not kill the Volvo's system, but you can definitely narrow the gap and possibly be able to match or very slightly best it. They're not bass heavy systems, so a concession can be made there. You'll have to skimp on some features and go with more average components. Assuming you can do the work yourself and can do some minor fab work (speaker adapter/mounting brackets - Option I & II), I'd probably try it this way:

	Option I	Option II	Option III
Radio:	Kenwood DDX376BT Best Buy: New ($299.99) | Open Box Excellent ($245.99)	Kenwood DDX376BT Best Buy: New ($299.99) | Open Box Excellent ($245.99)	Kenwood DDX376BT Best Buy: New ($299.99) | Open Box Excellent ($245.99)
DSP:	headunit's DTA/EQ settings	headunit's DTA/EQ settings	headunit's DTA/EQ settings
Amp:	Kenwood KAC-314 Best Buy: New ($199.99) | Open Box Excellent ($179.99)	Kenwood KAC-314 Best Buy: New ($199.99) | Open Box Excellent ($179.99) Kenwood KAC-511 Best Buy: New ($199.99) | Open Box Excellent ($163.99)	Kenwood KAC-314 Best Buy: New ($199.99) | Open Box Excellent ($179.99)
Front Channel:	Dayton Audio DC28F-8 Parts Express: ($45.00) [2 x $22.50] Dayton Audio RS180-4 Parts Express: ($130.00) [2 x $62.98]	Dayton Audio DC28F-8 Parts Express: ($45.00) [2 x $22.50] Dayton Audio RS180-4 Parts Express: ($130.00) [2 x $62.98]	JBL Club 605CSQ Crutchfield: New ($259.95) | Open-Box ($220.96)
Rear Channel:	stock	stock	stock
Sub:	Kicker 46HS10 * Crutchfield: New ($332.96) | Open-Box ($316.31)	Kicker 48CDF124 Crutchfield: New ($179.99)	Kicker 46HS10 * Crutchfield: New ($332.96) | Open-Box ($316.31)
Misc:	2 x 15uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Capacitor Parts Express: ($2.12) [2 x $1.06] Rockville RWK4CU 4AWG Gauge 100% Copper Amp Kit Amazon: ($59.95) 2x Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener Bulk Pack with Installation Kit, 50sq.ft. Amazon: ($169.52) [2 x $84.76] Misc Parts & Supplies various: ($45)	2 x 15uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Capacitor Parts Express: ($2.12) [2 x $1.06] Rockville RWK4CU 4AWG Gauge 100% Copper Amp Kit Amazon: ($59.95) Rockville RTR174 17 Foot 4 Channel Twisted Pair RCA Amazon: ($14.95) InstallGear Distribution Block 1x 0/4GA in | 2x 4/8GA out Amazon: ($9.99) 2x Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener Bulk Pack with Installation Kit, 50sq.ft. Amazon: ($169.52) [2 x $84.76] Misc Parts & Supplies various: ($65)	Rockville RWK4CU 4AWG Gauge 100% Copper Amp Kit Amazon: ($59.95) 2x Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener Bulk Pack with Installation Kit, 50sq.ft. Amazon: ($169.52) [2 x $84.76] Misc Parts & Supplies various: ($45)
EST Total:	~ $1157 — $1285	~ $1267 — $1377	~ $1238 — $1368

* Yes, that is a powered hideaway sub if options I and III. Given the budget, it'll do the job for now and can always be replaced/sold in the future. Since a hideaway is akin to heresy for some, option II exists.

If you want a DSP, figure another $180 for the Dayton Audio DSP-408 or $305 for the miniDSP 6x8. That can always be added to the system at a later date if needed. Just keep in mind that adding the DSP means you'll need a decent calibrated USB microphone like the MiniDSP UMIK-1 or the Dayton UMM-6 to use with software like REW.

While the DTA/EQ setting in the aftermarket Kenwood head units will never beat a true DSP setup, it's amazing how well they can fake it. Especially if the time is put into tuning/setting up all the system components correctly.

 

You must have 6x9 on doors.

 

I did a quick google and it looks like the hard-coded processing in the non-jbl tundra is in the factory amp under the driver’s seat, so you should have full range high level signal going into the factory amp you can tie into. If true, that’s a good thing- you may not need a new head unit, just an amp or dsp that takes high level inputs, or an loc to connect rcas.

You could consider just starting small and adding a sub to the stock system.

These kits look interesting- probably won’t knock your socks off but cheap ($230), better than whatever cardboard sub Harmon used in your gf’s car and it’s custom made for your vehicle:

2007-2013 Toyota Tundra Double Cab Truck Harmony R104 Dual 10" Sub Box Enclosure - HA-SUB-PACKAGE301
They also sell the box by itself or with a couple of other sub options.

this amp would drive it and has high level inputs. That would leave $500 for the front stage and accessories…

do you have any more info on the stock speakers? Do you have dash speakers, tweeters in pillars, etc?

 

1. You are the best!!!! So you mean I already have the wiring from the head unit to the area under the seat even if they didn't install the factory amplifier in my truck in the factory? Can I see that link? I would like to find out which wiring and how to identify it...

2. I have 6.5 in 3 in deep speakers. 4 in the 4 doors and 2 smaller one in the dash. No tweeters. Somebody makes covering for the Tundra for a set of new tweeters in the door. I can get 2 of them.

 

My 2009 non-JBL double cab Tundra has no factory amplifier under seat. Factory head unit has 4 pairs of speaker wires. The dash tweeter has a 3.3 uF capacitor and is wired in parallel with the front door 6x9 to the front speaker wires. The other 2 pair of speaker wires go to the rear door 6.5” speakers. The factory head unit speaker outs have factory equalization applied and are not flat.

 

I've experienced the same with my 2008 non-JBL Double Cab. Here is a copy of the wiring diagram straight from the 2010 service manual.

 

I've experienced the same with my 2008 non-JBL Double Cab. Here is a copy of the wiring diagram straight from the 2010 service manual.

ugh, that might complicate things. I guess the article I linked was talking about newer trucks. Sorry, I should have paid closer attention…

You still might be able to use the built-in amp output with an loc…

 

Sorry, thought I linked it. Post #4 says amp is under passenger seat not driver seat as I incorrectly translated…

Non JBL speaker upgrade?

Would upgrading speakers make enough difference to justify the cost? I’m not trying to go BOOM BOOM down the road just wanting something a little extra...

www.tundras.com

 

Good article… this is interesting:

 

I thought that was interesting too. Crutchfield may want to update their article. Plenty of 6x9 options will work with an adapter. 3 inch depth is the only issue I've come across.

To the OP, this set from Focal would be a good start for under $200. No extra brackets, connectors, or crossovers needed. Could run off of the factory head unit. I started my Tundra upgrade with a similar setup from Focal and it wasn't too bad for the money. Those tweeters can sound bright, but work well firing into the windshield because of that.

Could order straight from Europe for $176usd. I've ordered from them twice. Just takes longer for shipping.

IS TOY 690 - 2-way component kit - Focal

The 2-way component kit IS TOY 690 is designed for drivers who want to replace their original audio system with a quality sound solution.

www.focal.com

Focal IS-690TOY - 6x9" Compo

TWO-WAY KIT - TOYOTA IS 690TOY is a two-way kit with a 6x9 inch woofer and a tweeter, which can be used to pre-equip factory locations and improve…

www.carfeature.de

 

James Randy Taylor might help you with the cheap stuff. All he does is Tundras.

 

Is there any great deals on vintage amplifiers on ebay? I am looking at 4 channel Alpine Expert Series or any old Zapcos?

 

I know its not what most prefer to do but you could buy pieces at a time as you can afford them that way you can push the budget up.