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What does everyone use for RCA cables?

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40K views 76 replies 40 participants last post by  khlae  
#1 ·
what are good the good and reasonably priced RCA cable brands?
 
#2 ·
There's lots of debate about this...
I kinda subscribe to the idea that cheap RCA cables work just as good as expensive ones (based on my own experience).
However, I can fully understand the logic and principles behind developing a good RF rejecting cable.

To answer your question; I've found (and used) a few decent brands of cables:

Knuconceptz makes a good quality cable, that is very well priced:

Monoprice cables are dirt cheap, and very good quality:

I am currently using Stinger 8000 Series cables, and they are excellent:
 
#3 ·
There's lots of debate about this...
I kinda subscribe to the idea that cheap RCA cables work just as good as expensive ones (based on my own experience).
However, I can fully understand the logic and principles behind developing a good RF rejecting cable.

To answer your question; I've found a couple decent brands of cables:

Knuconceptz makes a good quality cable, that is very well priced:

I am currently using Stinger 8000 Series cables, and they are excellent:
actually both of these you mentioned are shortlisted, as well as the jl audio, and focals.
thing is the cart easily hits $100-200 (hard to swallow), that's why i want to see, what others have had success with.
since i need about 4ch for input and 12ch for output.

but stinger's 8000 seem like a decent choice.
 
#5 ·
I am using Magomi wire and Neutrik Profi ends.
(Mostly because the lengths are long and they are odd lengths.)

I also do not believe that they matter much, and a foil jacket and braided jacket of the wire seems to do the trick.

There is no dishonour in buying cables, as they are a bit of a PITA to assemble and solder, but not too bad.
 
#11 ·
You’re right, but sourcing parts here (Lebanon) isn’t easy, especially during lockdown.
So I want something priced right and delivers good signal and readily available.
As it is I have my work cut out for me.

too many parts procured, what was going to be a simple system 4Ch plus sub metamorphosed into 12 Active channels with dsp and honestly I just want to start with the wiring ASAP so I can start listening
No competitions here or anyone who cares about car audio so it’s strictly for me.
 
#13 ·
I use these:


They are very inexpensive, the ends fit snug, and they do a perfectly good job rejecting noise.
 
#18 ·
I've used Knu in the past and they failed over time. I wouldn't recommend them again. I am currently running cables I built myself using 61801EZ cable and Rean connectors. Building your own is more work than a lot of people want to do. For custom built cables, I would talk to Joe at RSD Custom Cables. If you want something simple and off the shelf, I would just order whichever Stinger cables meet your budget constraints.
 
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#63 ·
I have heard the "too much work" argument many times before and it always makes me wonder about the rest of the installation. With a little bit of practice, you should be able to build every RCA cable your system needs in far less time than it took to build a sub enclosure or install a few amps, especially if ANY part of your system involves fiberglass, body filler or glue :).

Measuring, cutting and terminating cables is not that difficult and doesn't require a bunch of expensive tools. The cables look better and make the final install easier because there isn't a bunch of extra length to coil/wrap/tape/hide. The cables perform at least as well, or better, than purchased cables, especially if you get serious about strain relief/sleeving/heat shrink etc. My favorite benefit is pride in building my own cables that are superior to anything I can buy.

The down side for me, was having to remake cables because I measured wrong and they were an inch too short :) I got over that by the second install.

That said - do what you feel comfortable doing.

Someone mentioned Canare cable and Neutrik connectors. I spent a long time in "pro audio" building amp and processing racks for pretty large scale PA systems for bands playing venues up to 2500 seats and those two choices are the "gold standard". Same goes for the recording studios I spent time in as a recording musician.
 
#19 ·
Also, I have always thought that this break down from Tony D'Amore was helpful for determine which type of RCA cable you should be using.

If the head unit has SE outputs and the amplifier has SE inputs = coax cable
If the head unit has SE outputs and the amplifier has Diff inputs = twisted pair
If the head unit has Diff outputs and the amplifier has Diff inputs = twisted pair
If the head unit has Diff outputs and the amplifier has SE inputs = bad no matter what as you will be shorting out half of the head unit's outputs. In this case you would need an amplifier with Diff inputs or a converter to convert the head unit's outputs to SE

In other words, check to see if your amp has differential inputs. If it does (and the manufacturer will usually say so), run twisted pair. If the amp manufacturer doesn't list "differential" or "balanced" inputs, it likely has single ended inputs and you can run coax.
 
#20 ·
great information, thanks a lot!

I believe my HU as well as my amps are SE output and input

Alpine ILX-w650 HU
Helix DSP ultra
Alpine PDX-v9
Alpine S-A32F
Infinity kappa k600 mono amp
Kicker 12 PX100.2 mini amp for the center channel

so according to the information you provided i am better off using a normal coaxial cable.
would a twisted design affect performance or pick up more noise is the question?



Also, I have always thought that this break down from Tony D'Amore was helpful for determine which type of RCA cable you should be using.

If the head unit has SE outputs and the amplifier has SE inputs = coax cable
If the head unit has SE outputs and the amplifier has Diff inputs = twisted pair
If the head unit has Diff outputs and the amplifier has Diff inputs = twisted pair
If the head unit has Diff outputs and the amplifier has SE inputs = bad no matter what as you will be shorting out half of the head unit's outputs. In this case you would need an amplifier with Diff inputs or a converter to convert the head unit's outputs to SE

In other words, check to see if your amp has differential inputs. If it does (and the manufacturer will usually say so), run twisted pair. If the amp manufacturer doesn't list "differential" or "balanced" inputs, it likely has single ended inputs and you can run coax.
 
#23 ·
That was not a pun, and it was not good... so I removed it.
(Sorry)

Those Neutrik profi amd the others ends and wire that were mentioned are pretty common.
Soldering is not too hard, and the 15' ones sort of come in as needing a DIY...

Shorter ones can use anything, as most people doubt you can hear any difference.
 
#24 ·
My go to is Blue Jean cable when i can't find what i am looking for off the shelf. A little more expensive maybe but rock solid. Recently had them make up a 12 ft Y cable when i could not find one anywhere.
 
#28 ·
what are good the good and reasonably priced RCA cable brands?
Stinger 4000 series. Anything more seems like a waste of money. These have no noise or other issues, are tough, and fit tight places. They're not pretty though.
 
#64 ·
I couldn't order from the states, so no Stinger, i ended up ordering the Focal Elite from germany, I hope they are okay,(they look nice) knowing focal is a good brand.

Notice how high shipping cost (%42) of total cost.

Thanks for your post. We forget how spoiled we are here in the US with the ease of Amazon/UPS/FedEx/USPS.
 
#34 ·
My knukonceptz RCA wires shorted out and caused a pop in my speakers... Blew my audiofrog tweeter. Took quite a while to identify the culprit. Definitely learned my lesson as to why you need a capacitor to protect your equipment.

Replaced with another set of knukonceptz. RCAs and that set didn't function on arrival.

Only speaker I've ever blown. I wont use their RCAs now

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#35 ·
i have used Raptor MID Series for many years. very affordable and local shop carries them.
 
#38 ·
I'm going to say that the install location makes a difference as well. If you're cramped for space and need your cables to make tight turns close to the terminus, you're going to be better off with lighter gauge cables, otherwise the pressure/tension on the connections is going to make them more likely to loosen, eliminating any possible gains from using heavier gauge cables. If space is no concern, or you can anchor the cables, nevermind. Also, avoiding long runs, like from the dash to the trunk, is going to have benefits as well; bluetooth/wifi connections, increasingly, are going to make separating your UI/control element from your player element advantageous. If your head unit is just an interface for the media player in the trunk with all your other goodies, interference from the vehicle's electrical system is limited to your speaker runs.

All that said, I'm using cheap Monoprice, but my RCA runs from the DSP to the amps are <18". Will probably work that down to about 12" when I rearrange things a little. (Currently splitting the DSP/amp locations between under the front seats and in the floor compartment behind them in my Odyssey.
 
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#40 ·
There are indeed plenty of cases on here alone with knu konceptz cables failing. That said, i use stinger x2 for normal builds, and RSD Cables for larger ones.

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#41 ·
I used to be exclusive to Knu years ago. I wasn't buying the top of the line but let's face it.. they were supposed to be good regardless. Well, they worked fine until they stopped working. Always figured they were just too delicate for the long haul. Used other brands since and haven't had an issue even after using from one vehicle to the next.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 
#56 · (Edited)
Yeah...that test is quite fishy LMFAO.

I know for a fact Zero Noise are decent at noise rejection, as I install them in cars pretty much weekly.

In a car, noise rejection trumps any nuances you'll gain from higher-end but noisy home cable designs (noisy in a car, not typically in a home).

In a home system, I only install cables I built. If a customer wants to opt out, I don't pressure them though; margins are WAY higher on bigger names than my house brand.