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problem is the length i need at least 15 ft, since i have the amp rack way in the back of my SUV
That is why three people here on this thread mentioned making their own.


... so according to the information you provided i am better off using a normal coaxial cable.
would a twisted design affect performance or pick up more noise is the question?
Neither picks up any significant amount of magnetic field coupled noise.
 
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Discussion starter · #22 ·
That is why three people here on this thread mentioned making their own.

From what I have seen in the movies, I assumed everyone in Lebanon knows how to solder.




Neither picks up any significant amount of magnetic field coupled noise.
good pun!
anyways, i know how to solder(i think), it's finding the right wires and interconnects, (very limited choices in my neck of the woods, evident from my gear) and honestly i just want to put everything together already.
 
That was not a pun, and it was not good... so I removed it.
(Sorry)

Those Neutrik profi amd the others ends and wire that were mentioned are pretty common.
Soldering is not too hard, and the 15' ones sort of come in as needing a DIY...

Shorter ones can use anything, as most people doubt you can hear any difference.
 
My go to is Blue Jean cable when i can't find what i am looking for off the shelf. A little more expensive maybe but rock solid. Recently had them make up a 12 ft Y cable when i could not find one anywhere.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
That was not a pun, and it was not good... so I removed it.
(Sorry)

Those Neutrik profi amd the others ends and wire that were mentioned are pretty common.
Soldering is not too hard, and the 15' ones sort of come in as needing a DIY...

Shorter ones can use anything, as most people doubt you can hear any difference.
no harm, no foul.
there's a professional audio place that stocks Proel wires( https://www.proel.com/index.php?route=product/products&cat1=776&cat2=779 ), i'll see if they have anything i can use, otherwise i'll either go with the focal rca's since i can easily order from germany, or the stingers i can get as well.
 
Nmkelectronics in UAE carries Neutrik and Rane.
But any RCA would work about the same.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Nmkelectronics in UAE carries Neutrik and Rane.
But any RCA would work about the same.
unfortunately they don't have an online store, and in 90% of the cases, stores don't deliver to Lebanon during Corona time(even ebay). i guess i'll just wing something out, without breaking the bank.
thanks for your time
 
what are good the good and reasonably priced RCA cable brands?
Stinger 4000 series. Anything more seems like a waste of money. These have no noise or other issues, are tough, and fit tight places. They're not pretty though.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I couldn't order from the states, so no Stinger, i ended up ordering the Focal Elite from germany, I hope they are okay,(they look nice) knowing focal is a good brand.

Notice how high shipping cost (%42) of total cost.

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How are TCHERNOV CLASSIC XS RCAs. I find Peter from PSSounds use it often in his install. I also have option of DIY Furutech FP 126 (G) Plugs and FC 62 Coaxial Blue Cables to connect my Helix Ultra and Helix C Fours and C One Amps.
 
My knukonceptz RCA wires shorted out and caused a pop in my speakers... Blew my audiofrog tweeter. Took quite a while to identify the culprit. Definitely learned my lesson as to why you need a capacitor to protect your equipment.

Replaced with another set of knukonceptz. RCAs and that set didn't function on arrival.

Only speaker I've ever blown. I wont use their RCAs now

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i have used Raptor MID Series for many years. very affordable and local shop carries them.
 
Did you just make that up ?
No. And I don't appreciate the insinuation from the likes of you.

What would cause them to fail ?
My guess would be a solder joint failure at the connector. I didn't waste time pulling them apart to perform a forensic analysis, given the fact that RCA cables are a pretty simple component.
 
I'm going to say that the install location makes a difference as well. If you're cramped for space and need your cables to make tight turns close to the terminus, you're going to be better off with lighter gauge cables, otherwise the pressure/tension on the connections is going to make them more likely to loosen, eliminating any possible gains from using heavier gauge cables. If space is no concern, or you can anchor the cables, nevermind. Also, avoiding long runs, like from the dash to the trunk, is going to have benefits as well; bluetooth/wifi connections, increasingly, are going to make separating your UI/control element from your player element advantageous. If your head unit is just an interface for the media player in the trunk with all your other goodies, interference from the vehicle's electrical system is limited to your speaker runs.

All that said, I'm using cheap Monoprice, but my RCA runs from the DSP to the amps are <18". Will probably work that down to about 12" when I rearrange things a little. (Currently splitting the DSP/amp locations between under the front seats and in the floor compartment behind them in my Odyssey.
 
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There are indeed plenty of cases on here alone with knu konceptz cables failing. That said, i use stinger x2 for normal builds, and RSD Cables for larger ones.

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