I guess it all would depend how the back of the seat is constructed.

Look into rivnuts if they will work for your application. It makes it serviceable and quite easy to use.

 

I'm not sure how to determine what the backseat is made of, it seems like it's wood but I can't tell for sure. Would you rivet the nuts right into the backseat?

 

Show us some pics. You might have to get to like 10 post or something before you can use links.

 

1. year make model so that we can know what you're looking at
2. Nothing in a car is made of wood unless your vehicle is some sort of antique wagon. Or really, really British.
3. For that application I would tend to use a self-tapping sheet metal screw, because I'm guessing you don't want to completely remove the foam and upholstery to get to the back of the sheet metal that you would be screwing to. Just zip the screws down in spots where the holes won't be terribly obvious (if possible) and move on with your life.

Looks like this: https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...RDZARIsAAfeXarV4ehERMvFYYxDyi5LyypDEx-VFMNk8kzcA0NfclPVGZ-c-Q2UNBIaAk7_EALw_wcB

 

1) 2011 Volkswagen Jetta
2) Good to know, thanks
3) Yeah I'd rather not have to get to the back of the screw. Thanks for the tip. My main concern was just if the strength of the screw could support the weight.

 

That should be fine. Make sure you don't over tighten the screws and that you drill a pilot hole for them.

 

I might consider 1/4" ABS instead of the MDF...lighter weight and more durable.

 

I never drill pilot holes with self-tappers. Defeats the purpose of "speed"
I've not used MDF in a car since I found out how cheap 3/8" HDPE is from USPlastic. You can buy it in sheets, and it machines about the same as MDF, but is infinitely weather-resistant.

 

One trick I've learned with self tappers is to keep a magnet nearby, it can help catch the metal shavings that will inevitably come from tapping the screw.

 

Hey guys I know this is an older thread but I'm wondering if you ever figured out a solution to this trying to do the same thing my 19 Camry has limited space and the entire trunk is going to be filled with a single 15 enclosure and a new 15" Incriminator audio TYRANT I also have to fit the SCIB bank somewhere in the trunk area maybe in the opening behind the back seat since the enclosure isn't going to have a sub or port facing the opening for now anyway I have a Deafbonce AAK 6000.1 and I just ordered a JP-34AB which isn't much smaller than the AAK and I need to fit both of them,LOC ,DSP, multiple fannies, and more on the amp rack that I'm trying to attach to the back seat were you able to get this done and how well did it hold up this is my Daily driver/weekend competitive audio car so I need it to be sturdy enough to hold everything I'm probably going to get a dual amp rack and stack the amps to save space but it's going to be a tight fit any help or advice would be greatly appreciated