So I have a 95 Nissan Hardbody extended cab. After much input from the folks here, I’ve decided to run an all Stereo Integrity setup (single sub and component set). But for some reason, I often desire to run an old school setup. Kinda at times think it would be cool to use 90 era products in that 95 truck. If I did, I’d likely go back to what I used to run - Linear Power amps (try to pick up two off eBay) and either a single Kicker SoloBaric sub or find a Cerwin Vega vega series sub. Again, I’d turn to eBay but would try to find one of these new. The amps I could have modded, and not sure what components I’d run. Only reason I’d choose one of those subs is that’s what I ran back in the day. I’m looking more for a project rather than a daily driver. And like both SQ and SPL, so that’s what led me to SI in the first discussions. Guess I’m just looking for some reassurance with the modern build, but give me your thoughts on the vintage. Should I or should I not?
clamb5097
Vintage amps will put a lot more stress on the electrical system. Expect to buy a new battery, and maybe even a new alternator.
Old School YES!
I'm biased of course because I'm about to redo my car with Old School stuff myself
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PPI Art A1200, A600.2 and A404, Kicker Solobaric S12d subs (x2) and Boston Acoustics Pro 6.2LF components. Will still be using a modern DSP (Helix DSP.3s)
I'm biased of course because I'm about to redo my car with Old School stuff myself
. PPI Art A1200, A600.2 and A404, Kicker Solobaric S12d subs (x2) and Boston Acoustics Pro 6.2LF components. Will still be using a modern DSP (Helix DSP.3s)
Hey, clamb... great post!
I'm doing a 'vintage install' myself (geez... I guess we're getting old enough to use that word, huh?).
I've had a bunch of Soundstream and Audio Control gear in storage for over 20 years, and I unearthed it THIS year. It all works, so I'm putting it in the car! I had to buy a new head unit (now for that, I WOULD counsel you to 'go modern'), but I've tested everything and it sounds great.
BUT, you asked in the title if we could 'talk you out of it.' And the truth is... I'm not sure I would do it. I'm doing it now because I already have functioning equipment in hand. If I didn't, I probably wouldn't 'go old school.' Here's my thinking (take it for what it's worth):
(1) Foremost, I think it's going to be hard to find new equipment from that era. So, you'll be dealing with 'the previously owned.' That's not always a deal-breaker, but with equipment of that age, you'll probably be buying 'as-is.' For fun and leisure (I know... I should get a life), I've browsed eBay over the years looking at old school car audio, and I think that the quality you're looking for is the proverbial needle in the haystack.
(2) Let's say you find equipment you like from a reputable seller, and you feel good about the purchase because the electronics have been 'bench tested,' Even if that's true (and it might be), old capacitors and transistors can 'crap out' even after repair--sometimes weeks or months later. And one thing I can tell you DEFINITIVELY is that it's difficult to find anyone who can or will repair an 'old school amp' (one of my old amps DIDN'T work, and I tried every shop and technician I could find in the state and NO ONE cared to touch it--for any price!
(3) If you're looking for sound quality, the processing available with today's amps are a wet dream for a mid-90s audiophile: totally customizable crossovers (frequency/slope), time alignment, 30-band EQs... it's all built-in (if you get a good one with a DSP). To use your vintage stuff, you can get an external DSP, of course, but it's awfully nice to have that built into your amps.
Just saying 'Linear Power' and 'Cerwin Vega' queued up the nostalgia! I totally get the desire to 'relive the days' with that equipment, and I don't think it's silly at all what you're considering (although you'll get some die-hards who might say otherwise). But the challenges of finding decent equipment and having someone who can repair it if things don't work out... I would probably spend my money on a nice 6-channel DSP amp, some satellites, and call it a day!
Good luck!
I'm doing a 'vintage install' myself (geez... I guess we're getting old enough to use that word, huh?).
I've had a bunch of Soundstream and Audio Control gear in storage for over 20 years, and I unearthed it THIS year. It all works, so I'm putting it in the car! I had to buy a new head unit (now for that, I WOULD counsel you to 'go modern'), but I've tested everything and it sounds great.
BUT, you asked in the title if we could 'talk you out of it.' And the truth is... I'm not sure I would do it. I'm doing it now because I already have functioning equipment in hand. If I didn't, I probably wouldn't 'go old school.' Here's my thinking (take it for what it's worth):
(1) Foremost, I think it's going to be hard to find new equipment from that era. So, you'll be dealing with 'the previously owned.' That's not always a deal-breaker, but with equipment of that age, you'll probably be buying 'as-is.' For fun and leisure (I know... I should get a life), I've browsed eBay over the years looking at old school car audio, and I think that the quality you're looking for is the proverbial needle in the haystack.
(2) Let's say you find equipment you like from a reputable seller, and you feel good about the purchase because the electronics have been 'bench tested,' Even if that's true (and it might be), old capacitors and transistors can 'crap out' even after repair--sometimes weeks or months later. And one thing I can tell you DEFINITIVELY is that it's difficult to find anyone who can or will repair an 'old school amp' (one of my old amps DIDN'T work, and I tried every shop and technician I could find in the state and NO ONE cared to touch it--for any price!
(3) If you're looking for sound quality, the processing available with today's amps are a wet dream for a mid-90s audiophile: totally customizable crossovers (frequency/slope), time alignment, 30-band EQs... it's all built-in (if you get a good one with a DSP). To use your vintage stuff, you can get an external DSP, of course, but it's awfully nice to have that built into your amps.
Just saying 'Linear Power' and 'Cerwin Vega' queued up the nostalgia! I totally get the desire to 'relive the days' with that equipment, and I don't think it's silly at all what you're considering (although you'll get some die-hards who might say otherwise). But the challenges of finding decent equipment and having someone who can repair it if things don't work out... I would probably spend my money on a nice 6-channel DSP amp, some satellites, and call it a day!
Good luck!
Could do a bit of both. I’m running Stereo Integrity sub and Morels, waiting on my class A modded Soundstream reference amps to come in. Cost of the amps and mods were not more costly than I would have paid for a new JL amp or similar. So why not if I prefer the sound of those amps, right? Will half a reassurance do?
I will say I did upgrade the alternator and battery as well. Mostly because Toyota stock alternators are like half the amperage of a GM alternator (80a? Wth?). So if electrical work is a dealbreaker, maybe there’s your why not. Lol
I will say I did upgrade the alternator and battery as well. Mostly because Toyota stock alternators are like half the amperage of a GM alternator (80a? Wth?). So if electrical work is a dealbreaker, maybe there’s your why not. Lol
I'm all about vintage.
I'd say go for it.. life is short.. enjoy it!
LP all the way! Try to snatch a moderately priced LP amp off of ebay and have them modd'd / repainted by Robert Rayfield ( if he is still around).
I'd say go for it.. life is short.. enjoy it!
LP all the way! Try to snatch a moderately priced LP amp off of ebay and have them modd'd / repainted by Robert Rayfield ( if he is still around).
Depending on how you plan to run the system, If you load down the amps, Class D is no more efficient than old school AB. Some Class D doesn't save any room and are as big as AB, unless you are getting in towards the mini amps.
There's nothing wrong with going either way and you can also mix it up as someone already mentioned. There was nothing wrong with systems back in the day and they could still compete with todays systems. some of the equipment from back then is still way better than some of the current equipment. you have to buy top tier equipment to be equivalent to some of the equipment of the past.
Just do what your gut is telling you and don't worry about what others say. I still have yet to find speakers that could compare to My old A/D/S components. Those cost me no more than $200/set back then. That's like $1500-$2000 speakers today; if they are even as capable. subs were much cheaper and still just as good as $700 subs of today...you get the point.
The only thing really beneficial today are DSP's...but that's just my opinion.
The only drawback of going oldschool might be needing to rebuild the old amps, headunits failing possibly but they were more built to last back then anyway.
Tough call but I don't think you can make a poor choice
There's nothing wrong with going either way and you can also mix it up as someone already mentioned. There was nothing wrong with systems back in the day and they could still compete with todays systems. some of the equipment from back then is still way better than some of the current equipment. you have to buy top tier equipment to be equivalent to some of the equipment of the past.
Just do what your gut is telling you and don't worry about what others say. I still have yet to find speakers that could compare to My old A/D/S components. Those cost me no more than $200/set back then. That's like $1500-$2000 speakers today; if they are even as capable. subs were much cheaper and still just as good as $700 subs of today...you get the point.
The only thing really beneficial today are DSP's...but that's just my opinion.
The only drawback of going oldschool might be needing to rebuild the old amps, headunits failing possibly but they were more built to last back then anyway.
Tough call but I don't think you can make a poor choice
A lot of old school amps doesn’t even require thick 2 gauge or 0 gauge wire to run. My zapco reference sounds better than my marantz in home. I did a test with the same speaker in home. Old school for the win
IMO, it comes down to what part of the hobby you enjoy.
If you're going for competition scores, then a period correct system puts you at a massive disadvantage.
If it's your daily driver, a period system is going to take up more space and reduce your functionality.
If you do it to sound good and have fun, then by all means do it. If it brings you more enjoyment, don't let anyone tell you not to. It ain't their car or build, ya know?
If you're going for competition scores, then a period correct system puts you at a massive disadvantage.
If it's your daily driver, a period system is going to take up more space and reduce your functionality.
If you do it to sound good and have fun, then by all means do it. If it brings you more enjoyment, don't let anyone tell you not to. It ain't their car or build, ya know?
Do. What. Makes. You. Happy.
I’m doing an old school install in my car as we speak. Soundstream Reference with class A mods and old school Alpine speakers. Only thing modern is the deck so I can get CarPlay. Not driving a lot of power because, well, if I’m being nostalgic then I must also be old
I’m doing an old school install in my car as we speak. Soundstream Reference with class A mods and old school Alpine speakers. Only thing modern is the deck so I can get CarPlay. Not driving a lot of power because, well, if I’m being nostalgic then I must also be old
Do what I do and leave a complete plastic bin of 80s Alpine audio gear in its box. Have gone pasted it and have moved on.
Word of caution, I was trying to recreate a late 90s Boston / PG circa 1999 /2000 .
Has the speakers but the “ cheater” amp had blown ( supposedly 4x 25 rms ) yet would draw 86 amps when flatout .
Found a second hand one. Installed in a 3 channel configuration. Turned it on …. Music on front left component only. Turned the car off , rechecked everything for a third time.Turned it back on. Made
The mistake of turning up the input to listen for any background hiss ….. 10 seconds later the car cabin fills with smoke under dash and smoke coming out of mid bass.
Turn everything off and grab a fire extinguisher.
Didn’t need it. Under closer inspection the faulty amp had taken out the right front comps and tweeters, crossover. But also I had made the mistake of protecting a 4 gauge cable with an 80 amp fuse. The insulation on the 4 gauge had gone from red to brown in a 1 foot section.
Be careful of buying older gear and only buy it from someone you can trust if you go this way.
Word of caution, I was trying to recreate a late 90s Boston / PG circa 1999 /2000 .
Has the speakers but the “ cheater” amp had blown ( supposedly 4x 25 rms ) yet would draw 86 amps when flatout .
Found a second hand one. Installed in a 3 channel configuration. Turned it on …. Music on front left component only. Turned the car off , rechecked everything for a third time.Turned it back on. Made
The mistake of turning up the input to listen for any background hiss ….. 10 seconds later the car cabin fills with smoke under dash and smoke coming out of mid bass.
Turn everything off and grab a fire extinguisher.
Didn’t need it. Under closer inspection the faulty amp had taken out the right front comps and tweeters, crossover. But also I had made the mistake of protecting a 4 gauge cable with an 80 amp fuse. The insulation on the 4 gauge had gone from red to brown in a 1 foot section.
Be careful of buying older gear and only buy it from someone you can trust if you go this way.
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