Need a poll there ant...

 

I'm about to do the switch from Passive to Active - I'll let you know shortly!

 

me too!

 

With some head units active is the only way to go ! Pioneer Premier , etc..,

 

Active for sure...but once you have active, and you start trying different settings (carPC), it's really hard to stop! I find myself on a Holy Grail mission of crossover points and slopes!

 

it depends....by now you should know that

 

How about a mixture of the two? that is what I run and like- maybe I am just "special"?

 

I agree. Deal with the response shaping with the passive and the high & low pass actively seems ideal.

If you have ever designed a home speaker, you know that the crossover not only provides basic low pass and high pass functions, but it provides response shaping. Does an active crossover deal with the rising midrange response or any general frequency response anomaly? No. I'm not saying that a flat frequency response is absolute, but a 5+ db rise/dip must be dealt with. I'd also bet that a passive notch filter is the best and cheapest way to deal with a resonance spike.

How many out there have SoundEasy or some software that can model this combination? I have it, but have only done passive. Why - the active response response must be combined with the driver's natural rolloff and to get matching order rolloffs you will have mixed order (I say "good luck").

- Brad

 

Both. I am actlivly passive. Tweets passive mid,sub active.

 

Tried to post but was told I am spaming and do not have enough post to post in this section. Dam gettin tough in da diyma hood.

 

Any chance you can post a screen shot?

ANT

 

No the screen would last maybe 2-3 seconds then move on.I back clicked 4 or 5 times so I could read the screen. I saw I could no longer post on here and no mods were on so i just went back to work. running Vista and Firefox.
Wayne

 

No the screen would last maybe 2-3 seconds then move on.I back clicked 4 or 5 times so I could read the screen. I saw I could no longer post on here and no mods were on so i just went back to work. running Vista and Firefox.
Wayne

 

I will never run passive again.

 

Currently running cheap coaxials actively off of h/u :blush:. Man, do I need to get moving on my install

 

Okay so I tried to make a post here, and I think I got the same spam message that was spoken of above. Then I refreshed this thread and my post wasn't made. Tried to post the same thing and was told it was a duplicate post. Yet, my post still never posted??!

Here is what I tried to post: "Currently running cheap coaxials actively off of h/u :blush:. Man, do I need to get moving on my install ."

Here's the spam message:

Huh, double post. WTF? Apparently I needed permission for the above posts.

Jedi may the Force be with choo !

 

Okay so I tried to make a post here, and I think I got the same spam message that was spoken of above. Then I refreshed this thread and my post wasn't made. Tried to post the same thing and was told it was a duplicate post. Yet, my post still never posted??!

Here is what I tried to post: "Currently running cheap coaxials actively off of h/u :blush:. Man, do I need to get moving on my install ."

Here's the spam message:

 

Huh, double post. WTF? Apparently I needed permission for the above posts.

 

Power is cheap, divide and conquer.

 

Sorry but this just isn't a good yes/no question! I spent a year or so with a set of Rainbow PRofi speakers - which I still think were a great set of speakers for the money. Along the way, I tried literally hundreds of combinations of things on my active system to get the set to cross well... and still was NEVER able to achieve the great balance I was able to get when I used the passive system. I assume it had something to do with the passive system having built in phase correction, but who knows.

No with my current setup, Morel 9" in doors and kicks with Scan 12ms and Scan Air circs, I couldn't imagine using a passive system... they flow together seemlessly using active and of course, you eliminate a lot of electrical components in the high power pathway that eat power, cause inefficiency, and can lead to many other problems!

That being said, I'd go active in a heart beat anytime I could do so effectively. I guess I should have just said, "It depends! You should know that!"

Less

 

Both have their place.

My newly acquired Winter car will have the passives installed along with the active x-over in my 9855.

Once I get my other car competition worthy I'll be going 4 way active....but that may change.

 

I like a good combo of the 2 types!

 

I would say that I like bi-amping: meaning using the passive crossover but having the control over each drivers with equalizer and TA

 

I have this quandry right now. My PPI 6.5 componenets are bi-ampable. I am running a Soundstream ref 500 to the mids and tweets now through the passive x-overs. I have a Pioneer 9200 DE-Q with can be active and has time delay. I am adding a Soundstream Class A 100 to the tweets this week. Do I use the bi-amping through the passive x-overs that came with the speakers or do I cut out the passive x-overs all together and run everything totally active?

 

Most of the time I run passive highs and active on sub. I tend to pick drivers that work well on top and don't have to mess with them, just some EQ maybe. Subs I must have active, have to change that all the time. I've run three way, but for the pain I rarely see any advantage...KISS works better. A good comp set should be sorted out pretty close. If you want to run all active or figure it is easier than building good passives for custom drivers, then you might as well try it. I tend to swap front drivers a few times looking for something that works well without more wires and amps. The times I ran three way were just for fun really.

 

Once I went to active.....I swore I'd nevergo back. Now I kind of regret it as I see the price ofmy comming install keep climbing...... but I know it will all be worth it the first time I take a road trip with my dialed-in install.

 

I swore I'd never go back to passive..... active ruins your wallet for life

 

i totally agree. i have some PG Ti1 crossed them at 1.9k and still blew it (twice), and PG Ti6 crossed at 100 and blew those too when i decided to go active. and recently i have the Morel Supremo Piccolo's crossed them at 1.9 (they sound so goddamn sweet) cranked the volume and guess what? uh huh, i blew them too. but i'm still gonna go active if i can afford it. i just need a less beefier amp.

does any one knows if morel speakers are fixable, if so where can it be done? i know the home speaker are, but what about the mobile?i have a total of 6 tweets, 2 soft mids, and 4 mid woofers that are blown. so sad i have no music right now.

 

Hi all,

I said Passive, however, after reading the above posts realize I'm in fact utilizing both.

Passive between Mid/Tweets. Active for my "kick-pods". Also active for my Subs.

I'm sort of starting all over - had a 95 Corolla done up with Focal drivers, being driven by a mixture of Butler and Fosgate. Took forever to tweak it so it was just right, then gave the car to my wife.

I'm starting all over again with a 2000 Honda Civic with a newly rebuilt altenator (134 amps - 2 stock batteries)

This is why I've joined diyma - thought this time I just might have info available to save me from always learning the hard-way...I'm sure a few of you know what I mean.

Ok, I've said my Hello and bored you with who I am - so, soon the questions shall pour forth.

Thanks and God Bless All !!!

What are "Trackbacks" ??

 

I always go active it lets you tune to your tastes.

 

after just going to active, I can't imagine why I'd go back. The midrange of my Boston Pro 6.5's is MUCH cleaner. The top end isn't as bright/in-your-face.